Gama jobber.
MegThis is the Tivolisi podcast covering life, travel and more in the country of Georgia, brought to you by foodfundtravel.com, comma, expathub, dot, ge and eat thistours.com.
Meghello, hello, hello.
MegWelcome to another episode of the Tbilisi podcast, a show about life and travel in Tipilisi and Georgia.
MegI'm your host, Meg.
MegI've been gone for a while.
MegI think.
MegI think we haven't released anything in a year.
MegWhoops.
TomOh, is it that long?
MegDoes anyone remember?
TomMany months.
MegHello, I'm Meg.
MegNice to meet you again.
TomLucky people.
TomJust keep listening to the old episodes.
TomNot that they're that old.
MegThat is true.
Tom2023 stuff still up there.
MegAnd of course, that other voice you can hear is Tom.
MegHi, Tom.
TomHey, how's it going, everybody?
TomNice to be back.
MegYes, thank you to everybody that has messaged us since we have.
MegWe've been really busy.
MegWe've been crazy busy.
TomTour season is insane this year compared to last year.
TomIt's much, much, much, much, much busier.
MegThat's why we haven't released anything new in quite a while.
MegBut we're here.
MegThank you to everyone that messaged us saying that you listened to the episodes that we do have out and that you found the information really useful.
MegWe love hearing from you guys, so thank you so much for messaging.
MegIn response to that, we've got a new episode.
MegHuzzah.
TomYes.
TomReady to release some new stuff and maybe some more episodes coming this year.
TomLet's hope so.
MegLet's hope so.
MegBut this episode we are doing today is all about Signagi.
MegIt's one of the main places that people do want to visit when they're coming to Georgia.
MegIt's one of the main tours that we run and we thought we'd give you guys just a little bit more information about what is Signagi.
MegWhy is it so cool?
MegWhy should you go there?
MegWhat's going on?
TomMmm.
TomYeah, well, it is cool.
TomI love Signagnagi.
TomI think it's very cute.
TomThey've done a lovely job.
TomIt's a mountain village in Karketi, just about an hour and 45 minutes, almost 2 hours from Tbilisi.
TomAnd you get incredible views of the Caucasus mountains from the city walls.
TomIt's surrounded by fortifications about four and a half kilometers of city walls.
TomAnd we're gonna get into some more details as we go along.
TomBut just setting a picture here as you get a, you get us a full panoramic view of the Caucasus mountains from Signagi and the little town village itself is.
TomIt's technically legally a town.
MegI think it's a city.
MegI think it's one of Georgia's smallest cities.
TomI thought.
TomYeah, well, maybe they've given it city status now, but the city of love, this is called the city of Love.
TomBut then in the soviet era, it was nominated as a town, was finally established as a town, and that was quite a while ago.
TomSo maybe they've officially given it city status, but it's a very small city if it is legally a city of only about 2000 permanent residents, isn't it?
MegYeah.
TomEveryone else coming through as tourists and.
MegYeah, it's one of those places that gets very quiet at night when all the tourists leave and then it's like bustling during the day and then it's very quiet again at night.
TomYeah.
TomSo what are we going to talk about, signagi, this incredible mountain town, city, village?
TomWhat are we going to say?
MegSo let's jump into it.
MegSo we're going to talk a little bit about why it's the city of love, a little bit about the historical background, its unique charm, its beautiful architecture, lots and lots of different things.
MegSignagi has been, as most places in Georgia have been around for quite some time.
MegThe area has been inhabited since the paleolithic era.
TomThat's quite a long time ago.
TomI mean, I don't remember it personally.
MegYeah.
MegBut sort of like the city, town area sort of as we know it more recently was formally established in 1762 by King Irakli II.
MegHe was the king of Karketi and Cartly at that time.
TomWell, not of Cartli then.
TomHe was the king of Karketi in 1762.
TomHe eventually became the king of Cartli and Karketi a bit later when his father died.
MegYes.
TomSo we'll get into some of that history stuff later as well.
MegYep.
MegBut King Heraklia is really known for that sort of.
MegDefinitely the Karketi area.
TomYou see statues because he was the king of Karketti and he reunited Georgia.
TomHe reunited central Georgia with Karketi, which hadn't been together for a few hundred years from before that, actually a persian semi autonomous area for quite a few hundred years.
TomAnd it eventually got ceded back to him by the Persians, which was very nice of them, but.
TomWell, was it nice of them?
TomNo, they were having trouble with their own wars in other lands and decided they could trust King Orkla to look after that area and decided they didn't have time to look after anymore.
TomSo he got it ceded back to him and he became the king of Karketi.
MegApparently the town itself was actually formed as a strategy against the Persians.
MegYou mentioned that before.
TomFor coming back.
TomYes, they were coming back.
MegWe don't want you.
TomSo how much did, did they put the trust in him?
TomAnd he was like, well, yeah, you trust me, but I don't trust you very much.
MegBut that is one of the things when you are actually in Signagi, one of those things.
MegI find I do this a lot in certain places in Georgia.
MegI'll stand there and be like, yeah, I wouldn't want to be invading this space.
MegLike, you put yourself in the shoes of the invading army and you're like, that's a pretty big hill to climb.
MegI don't want to be climbing that hill.
MegOr if there's a big fortress here, which there is in Signagi, you're like, I don't want to be trying to take down that fortress.
MegThat sounds hard.
MegLet's just, you know, go get some mead and go home.
TomYeah.
TomSo, well, if you're persian, I don't know if you're drinking mead.
MegNot so much meadow.
TomMaybe not.
TomDepends which century we're talking about.
TomSo.
TomWell, one of the things, of course, that we alluded to here is it's on a mountain, but it's on a mountain right above the Alizani valley.
TomAnd that means the Alazani valley is like the main winemaking valley of Karketi.
TomAnd that's where the Caucasus mountains are, on the other side of that valley.
TomAnd this is why the view is so amazing, because Signagi is a few hundred meters up from the central valley.
TomSo, yes, if you're an invading army, you don't want to be climbing that hill to try and invade.
TomIt's big, especially when they've built 5 walls around the outside.
TomSo, yeah, yeah.
TomThat wouldn't be a fun place to invade at all.
TomBut they didn't build the walls straight away, did they?
TomFirst of all, Heraklay moved in, or started moving in in 1762 and decided to turn this into his summer palace to make the entire village at that time a summer palace.
MegWell, yeah, it's much cooler there, a.
TomFew hundred meters up from the valley.
TomNice fresh breezes.
TomYep.
TomBeautiful views.
TomI think if I was a king, I would choose that.
TomAnd even if I wasn't a king, if I was just looking to buy a hotel, maybe I would buy one there.
TomIt's a nice spot for it.
MegIt is, it is, it is.
MegYeah.
MegSo back in the day, the way that they actually settled the town was they gave armenian and georgian merchants, they were encouraged to settle there because they got tax privileges.
MegSo that's how they actually got people to move in once.
MegOnce Erekli had things set up there.
MegAnd because of that, it actually really became an important trade hub as well.
MegSo for the people that were welcome, they set up a lot of trade and it was like a really important place for that.
MegPeople who are not welcome, you're like, you can stay away.
MegAnd here's my walls.
TomYeah, well, I mean, this is sort of the georgian history, really, isn't it?
TomIf you're welcome, then come in and have some wine.
TomAnd if you're not welcome because you're about to invade us, then we will slaughter you.
MegYeah, that's the way it rolls in Georgia.
TomSo, yeah, that is the georgian strategy.
TomMakes sense.
MegAnyway, that is a very, very brief sort of little background about how it all started.
MegWe'll talk about like, a little bit more about everything in a little bit.
MegBut let's start because the most things people are not listening to this podcast are not for a history lesson.
MegThey want to know what to do in signagi.
TomFun things.
MegYeah.
MegSo let's do that first.
TomAll right.
TomSo what's the number one thing?
TomWhat do you think's the best thing to do in signagi?
MegExplore the walls.
TomWell, I mean, we're not reinventing the wheel here, but it's true.
TomYou are going to want to do a quick walk along the walls.
MegWell, the thing we didn't actually mention is it's one of those places where you can actually get up and walk along the walls.
MegYou can climb it.
MegThere's like going up to it.
MegYeah, there's a small section that you can actually go along.
MegAnd no matter what season it is, it's actually really interesting to go and visit that section of the wall and take your photos and stuff like that because it's open in winter and it's all covered in snow and the Alizani valley is all covered in snow.
MegOr you can go in spring when everything's just flowering.
MegDefinitely in winter and spring, your views might not be as fantastic.
TomI think the view in winter is significantly better because if it's a crisp, clear day, you can see the mountains perfectly.
MegThat is true.
TomMy best photos are from winter.
TomSummer it gets a little hazy.
MegThat is true.
MegThat's a really good point.
TomI think winter is true.
MegI was thinking more like just like cloudy, bad weather days.
MegBut happen that often?
TomYeah.
TomI mean, we also have some pretty nice winter days.
TomIt might not be warm, especially not up there.
TomAnd there may be snow all over the place, but it's going to be crisp and clear on some of those days, so you pick the right day and you're going to get amazing photos.
MegThat's true, yeah.
TomDuring the summer, if it's a cloudy day, then you're just going to seize.
MegHaze above the mountaintops, especially if you're coming from Tbilisi.
MegIf you do go out there in the summer days and you spend the night in Signagi and get up early in the morning, then you can get some really good views.
TomYeah, yeah.
TomEarly start, if you want the best views, for sure.
TomOne of the other things that's changed, and one of the other reasons I like the winter, is because you get all the snow caps on the mountains and even more than just the caps, whereas in the middle of summer, the snow's pretty much gone by the end of May.
TomAnd apparently, speaking to some georgian friends here, they say that their parents used to say 40 years ago that there was always snow on the tops of the mountains for the entire year, even in August.
TomAnd it's not true anymore.
MegThanks.
MegClimate change.
TomYeah.
TomClimate change is real people.
TomIf you don't believe it, you're denying the wrong thing.
TomThis is definitely happening.
TomDefinitely.
TomIf you want the snow caps, then between early December and late April, you're still gonna have some snow.
TomI've been out there this summer as well, and there was still a little bit of snow left in June, but really it was pretty much all gone by June, so even may, probably not.
TomAll right, so, yeah, you walk the city walls, it actually only takes like, 20 minutes.
TomYou climb up at one end in the village, and then you walk down the walls to the other end, and then you can walk back up the street or back up the walls up to you.
MegYeah.
TomOr if you're on a tour like ours, then the driver picks you up at the bottom, or can pick you up at the bottom, depending on whether you want to walk up the hill again or not.
MegThat's the part that you can climb, but you can also just walk around different parts of the city and see different parts of the wall and take photos and do stuff like that.
MegSo, exploring the walls, like, to actually climb the walls, maybe 20 minutes.
MegActually exploring the walls all over the city takes a fair bit longer.
MegYeah.
TomI mean, if you want to walk around the main areas as well, you're going to want at least an hour to walk around and walk along the walls.
TomAnd that's for a relatively speedy sort of visit.
TomThat's the sort of visit that the average tour group is doing, like any tour you're going to go on is maybe doing 40 to 50 minutes total, but that's it.
TomWalking on the walls is great.
TomAmazing views.
TomYou can see the walls on the other ridges opposite the city.
TomSo it really is such a long wall that you can just watch it wrap around the entire place.
MegI read somewhere that it's one of the longest continuous walls, town walls in Europe.
TomYeah, it is one of the longest.
TomIt's not the longest, but I think it's in like, the top ten or something.
TomYeah.
TomAnd in Georgia, it's definitely the longest.
MegThe great wall of Georgia.
TomThe great Wall of Georgia.
TomYou can call it this.
TomSo, yeah, that's the number one attraction.
TomWhat else have we got?
MegOkay.
MegAnother thing I really love doing when I visit Signagi is going to the museum.
MegI'm a museum person.
MegI love going to museums.
MegI love learning things.
MegI don't like going to a place and not learning something new.
MegAnd the signagi museum, it actually, I will admit it took me a while, a couple of visits to signagi before I actually visited the museum.
MegAnd that's why I'm saying straight off the bat, go visit the museum.
MegIt's good.
MegDon't put it off because I really enjoyed it.
TomI think mainly I love the Piras mani exhibit upstairs.
MegI mean, you can get certain museums where there's like, oh, here's some spears and here's some clay pots.
MegIt's a lot.
MegYou do get a lot of that.
TomYeah.
TomAnd this museum has some of that.
MegOne of the famous people from the region, his name was Niko Pirasmani and he was born in a village nearby, Signagi.
MegWe did a full episode on it.
MegYou can go back and listen to that full episode if you want to find out all about Nico Pirouzmati.
MegBut one of the cool things about the Signagi museum is they actually have some of his original paintings there that you can go and see.
MegDon't make my mistake.
MegI thought they weren't real.
MegI thought they were remakes.
MegAnd I stepped over the line to take a closer look.
MegSecurity were on you in seconds there that grandma hauled.
MegGrandma's security.
MegShe was there to rouse on me.
MegShe was like, no, they're real.
MegAnd I was like, oh, my bad.
MegSo they're real.
MegBut Nico Pirosmania is, like, really, really important in georgian art history.
MegSo to actually get to go and see the originals, I thought was really, really cool.
TomYeah, no, I like the museum.
TomIt's good.
TomSo you need about maybe 30 minutes for that museum.
TomIt's really not that big a museum.
MegIt depends on what sort of museum person you are.
TomYeah, yeah.
TomIf you want to read every single plaque and know what every spearhead was made of or whatever, then, yeah, might take a bit longer, but, yeah, 30 minutes, I think, for the average visitor, average tourist would be enough.
MegAll right, what's next?
MegWhat else would you say to do in signage?
TomI don't know.
TomDo you want to talk about wine?
TomBecause mainly all I want to do is talk about wine.
MegOkay.
TomI'm having to listen to you talk about sightseeing or whatever.
TomI don't know.
TomWe talk about wine.
MegAll right.
MegWhat wines do you rate in Sagnagi?
TomAll right, so because this area is elevated, it's a few hundred meters up from the valley.
TomThere's not actually much viticulture going on in and around the city itself.
MegThey're all down in the valley.
TomThey're mainly down in the valley.
TomThere are a few that are sort of close to signagi in higher elevation, but they're not, like, right there.
TomSo what you get in Signagi is cellar doors.
TomYou don't get vineyards.
TomSo if you want to go to some cellar doors, you want to go try some wines, maybe meet some winemakers, if you're lucky as well, then there's definitely a few places to go to.
TomNow, all the guidebooks say the first off thing they're going to list is pheasants tears.
TomEveryone's heard of pheasants tears.
TomThey're really good at promoting themselves, and everyone knows who they are.
TomThey've done a lot of work with the georgian community and really promoted the natural wine scene around.
TomSo that's one place that you could go.
TomBut I wanted to talk about some other places that are a little bit more.
MegThey don't get so much promotion and definitely deserve to be heard.
TomYeah.
TomPlaces that, you know, you might enjoy more because they're less well known, you get a little bit more off the beaten track.
TomSo what have we got?
TomMy number one pick is going to be ceravani.
MegEvery time.
TomCeravani is part of the natural wine association.
TomI think they make fantastic wines.
TomThey're really, really solid amounts of care put into the wines they make.
TomIt's all small batch stuff.
TomTheir wine room is sort of very central in Signagi.
TomIt has a nice view, not towards the Caucasus, but in the other direction.
TomAnd I think their yard is really lovely to sit in.
TomAnd then Marani is actually right there, so they make the wines there.
TomUnlike pheasants tears, which is in signagi, pheasants tears is just a restaurant.
TomSo it's a restaurant where you can taste wines made by them.
TomBut the marani is not there.
TomIt's actually quite a long way from there.
TomIt's like a 30, 40 minutes drive in Tibani.
TomI think Caravani is more of an interesting stop for people who are not just casual wine enthusiasts, but people who want to go and try something and probably meet the winemaker.
TomThe winemakers, there's two of them, Archil and Ilya is his cousin.
TomThey work together and make wine, but Archil is like the main guy, so they're there most of the time.
TomOne of them is there, or someone from the family's there.
TomAnd it's a much more sort of family oriented place where pheasant steers.
TomYou're gonna mainly have one of the waiters or maybe the wine host would serve you.
TomYou wouldn't actually meet the winemaker normally.
TomYeah, I've never met him there.
TomI've been a few times and I've never met him there.
TomAnd I haven't met the owner either.
TomSo I think they're joint owners, actually.
TomAnyway, so that's probably my number one.
TomCaravani would be where I'd go for a really sort of personal experience.
TomMeet the winemaker, sort of thing.
MegYep.
MegNice quarry wines.
MegAnd they also do a pet nat as well, which is the georgian sparkling wine.
TomBetter to book in advance.
TomThey are open all day, but better to book in advance.
MegThey're not big, so definitely book in advance.
TomYeah.
TomGroups are going through all the time.
TomWe have groups going there almost every day during the season.
TomSometimes we have two groups a day going there during the season.
TomYou could also join one of our tours if you want to get a guaranteed spot with other people, because we book everything in advance, so.
TomEthisthistours.com plug.
TomYou know who I am already, if you're listening to this podcast.
TomCome on.
TomThat's my number one.
TomWe go there a lot.
TomMy number two, which I shouldn't say number two, because it's also actually really fantastic.
TomIt's just a different vibe.
MegThe second one that we're making, mentioning this is in no particular order, also.
TomMakes really interesting natural wines, is cradle of wine, which is just a little bit up behind the village.
TomSo you get a really nice view of Signaghi town itself.
TomSo I think it's great to sit there either inside or even on the terrace.
TomAnd it's a wonderful place for a view.
TomMakes some very interesting wines.
TomThe winemaker, Paul, is actually american, but he's lived in Georgia for like, 15 plus years now, so he's pretty much fully ingrained in society, so very much taking seriously everything.
TomGeorgian traditions.
TomHe's a really interesting guy to meet.
TomIf you're there, do go and visit them.
TomAlso worth booking in advance, although they might take walk ins.
TomThey have sessions in the afternoon.
TomNormally, if you turn up at the right time and the session times may change.
TomSo do contact them first to check, then you might get in a session there.
TomOtherwise they probably tell you to come back in an hour or something.
TomWhen they've got another group in that.
MegSort of thing, expect to try some really kooky wines there.
MegThey've got their standards that are fantastic.
MegPaul likes to experiment.
TomYeah, I mean, I love some of the experiments.
MegYeah.
TomYeah.
TomSo it could be pushing your boundaries a bit more than Caravani, if you're onto the experimental stuff.
TomBut he's pretty good.
TomAnd is the hosts who work there, he's not always there, by the way.
TomI'm not saying you're gonna meet him.
TomThe hosts he has there will talk to you a little bit and probably figure out, they're like, oh, this person's not gonna want to try any of the crazy stuff.
TomLet's just stick to the normal ones.
TomBut if you tell them you want crazy, they're gonna pull something out, probably.
TomThat is a little wild.
TomSo that's pretty fun as well.
TomNext on the list, slightly more famous.
TomAnd as I said, this is just a list.
TomNo particular order as such.
TomOkro's wine.
TomAnd they've got a restaurant with views of the Caucasus.
TomThe terrace upstairs is really small that has the views, so you would either want to book in advance or hope that it's not already got a load of people on it.
TomGood thing there is, you can pretty much get a wine tasting on the spot and they'll serve even one person.
TomI think Kervanni will serve one person if they've got bottles open, but if they've got nothing open, they might be a little bit more hesitant about that and you want to join a group.
TomSo Okrose is very easy, and they also make natural wines, and they've famously been making natural wines since around 2004.
TomThey've got a lot of pedigree behind them and they've got a big selection of different wines.
TomDifferent family members make their own wines as well.
TomAnd you have options to taste various things while you're there.
TomAnd the food's good as well.
TomYeah, traditional georgian food.
TomSo, yeah, caravani do food as well.
TomAnd cradle of wine also do food, if you book in advance, a bit more of the sort of buffet.
TomNot buffet, but like.
TomYeah, not like full a la carte menu or anything, or just being like service of certain dishes.
TomAnd it's like a set menu thing that you get with the wine tasting.
TomSo there's my top three.
TomMy three picks that I would recommend for people to go and try.
MegYep.
MegI also will just throw in a little mention if wine isn't your thing, which, you know, some people do come here and they don't really love wine just outside of signagi.
MegSo it's sort of.
MegSignagi region is a place called lost Ridge and they are actually a microbrewery, so you can get some good beers from there.
MegIf you're more into the beers than the wines, then you can definitely drop into lost Ridgeon.
MegHave yourself a Luigi.
TomLudi.
MegLudi.
MegI just said blue.
MegYou said, ludi, you can have yourself a blue.
MegYou have a blue.
TomIt's not that sort of place.
TomIt's not a blue place, Ludi.
TomDefinitely more of a beer place.
TomAnd they have great accommodation as well.
TomReally nice.
TomSort of small.
TomNot not small, sort of boutique.
MegYeah.
TomBoutique hotel rooms.
TomAnd it's on the other side of the ridge.
TomSo it's the lost ridge, not the main ridge.
MegYeah.
MegThere's a horse ranch there as well.
TomThere's a horse ranch.
TomThe rooms are great and you've got views in the other direction.
TomNot at the Caucasus, but it's a quieter.
TomIt's not where all the tourists go.
MegSo we've spoken about wine, we've spoken about beer and now there's only one.
TomNatural thing to speak about next, I guess the munchables.
TomThe edibles.
TomThat's the wrong word for it.
TomIt's not that sort of town either.
TomCity.
TomI'm just going to call it village town city, interchangeably.
TomYou guys can research for yourself what.
MegWe legally think it is.
MegEdibles.
MegYou're not getting edibles there.
TomYeah, but things that are edible.
TomThere are definitely some restaurants that you can head to, as we mentioned, caravani do do food as well.
TomBut you need to normally book that in advance.
TomIt is not a restaurant.
TomIt is very much.
TomIf you've got a group and you want to book in advance, order some food.
TomAnd okros, of course, we mentioned already.
TomSo where else is interesting?
TomI think what's interesting is ammo and also the terrace.
TomBoth of these are not in the main town, they're up the ridge behind the town, which is still part of Signagi.
TomBut it means you've got a view over Signagi as well as to the mountains.
TomWhereas all the ones down where the city walls section is that you can walk where, like the center of the old town is where you can go through and see all the little craft stalls and everything else.
TomThat's a bit touristy, but not too crazy touristy.
TomThat section, you only get views of the mountains, whereas from up the top, where Amo and the terrace are, you get amazing views of the town and the mountains.
TomThere's a whole bunch of photos on our website of this, I think, because.
TomYeah, I love that view.
TomI think that's, like the best view.
MegIt is like one of the best views in Georgia.
MegCan I say in Georgia?
MegIt is.
MegIt is.
MegIn Georgia.
MegIt's one of the best views.
TomYou got the mountains, you've got the city walls, you've got the town itself, you've got the church.
TomEverything from up there you can sort of see from the top.
TomAnd both of those restaurants consistently doing solidly good food.
TomBoth have a nice seating area.
TomAmmo has this sort of glass section that they put over in the winter.
TomSo you can actually sit in sort of a conservatory style area that's perched on the side of the cliff and have a nice view without being as cold.
TomAnd the terrace has a terrace, of course.
MegOf course.
TomSo both of these places, the foods you're going to be getting traditional georgian food.
TomAnd there's quite a large selection.
TomThe wine lists there are a little bit just meh, average stuff, but not like bad stuff.
TomI just mean, like, you're not getting any.
TomOr at least the last few times I've been there, you weren't getting any wild and crazy wines.
TomYou're getting your regular selection of sort of the medium sized and larger wineries, which is still some good wine.
TomSo you want to eat with an amazing view.
TomI'd suggest you take a little trip just up the hill.
TomSo like a ten minute taxi ride, if that.
TomLike a five minute taxi ride.
TomOr walk up there and they're open.
TomI think in the evenings, the terrace gets really a bit party and they're like live music.
TomNot live music, but like loud music might be on.
TomI've heard that feedback from some people.
TomOkay, mostly we go there during the daytime because that's when tours go through and whatever.
TomSo that's one thing to consider.
TomMaybe check with them before you book.
TomIf you're not going to want to have a massive speaker next to your head blasting some georgian pop music.
MegYep.
TomBut still both great.
MegOh, also forgot to mention before, Lost Ridge is vegetarian.
TomYes.
TomBut they do have meat dishes.
MegDo they?
MegBut they're predominantly.
TomPredominantly vegan, vegetarian focused.
MegYeah.
TomAnd they do have some really good vegan vegetarian food as well.
TomBut they do have some meat dishes for those who want to eat meat, which most people going, I guess, do.
MegI don't know, especially Georgians, I'm pointing out to people that mostly don't want to eat meat.
TomYeah.
MegYeah.
MegThat's where you could go.
TomYeah, yeah.
TomYou could go to lost Ridge, for sure.
MegAll right, so, because signagi is a really small city town village, we should.
TomHave just looked up what the official decision was on this.
TomNo, I prefer it.
TomWe'll just stick with this.
MegThere's only, like, a certain amount of things that you can do within the city, and then there's, you know, other things you can do surround.
TomCity town village.
MegYes.
MegSo, yeah, you go there during the day mostly.
MegIf you wanted to stay overnight, there's some great places to stay.
TomHey, there's loads of places to stay overnight.
TomBut I'm always surprised that I think people maybe have busy days out on tours or driving around, and then they just pass out and you don't feel like the place is pumping at night.
TomI'm not going out going like, every table's full.
TomEven in the middle of summer when I've been there, I'm like, well, yeah, there's a few people out, but it's not just crazy.
TomWhereas during the day, bus tour after bus tour can be coming through during that July August busiest period.
TomAnother reason to go in winter, if you want quiet during the day, it's very peaceful.
MegYeah, it's lovely.
MegBut are there any attractions nearby, Signagi, that you would recommend?
MegPeople drop in and check out?
TomWe're already leaving, signagi.
TomI mean, I can talk about wine forever.
TomAs you know, the crazy thing is that there isn't any really notable attraction, attractions that I would specifically recommend other than wineries in that area.
TomIt is very wine focused.
TomThere are some interesting.
TomThere's an interesting old wine factory down in Cardenaki, which has over 700 quevres, which is Cardenaki wine factory number one.
TomIt's a bit of a dark tourist spot, in my opinion, because most of them are not being used anymore.
TomThey're making a little bit of wine there, but they're not really utilizing that huge 19th century sort of warehouse of wine making that obviously used to be making a lot.
TomAnd now it's a bit dilapidated, but it's super interesting to go and see because it's one.
TomIt's one of the biggest.
TomI think it might be the biggest amount of quveries all in one space.
Tom700.
TomIt's spread across like two spaces on the site, but they're right next to each other.
MegIt's the most I've ever seen.
TomYeah.
TomI was like, wow.
TomYeah, this place is amazing.
TomSo for a bit of dark tourism, just pay for the tasting.
TomI don't know what it is, like 30, 40 lorri.
TomAnd then you can go in and see the whole place as well and try a couple of wines.
TomBut nerf or attractions wise, specific attractions.
TomWhenever people say, what else are we going to do near Signagi?
TomI go drive towards Tilavi.
MegWell, what about the Bodma monastery?
TomOh, okay, so by outside of Signagi, you mean literally next to Signagi?
TomWithin like 1 meter of signagi.
TomBodbay is so close to Signagi, I almost consider it as being sagnagi.
TomIt's right there.
TomI mean, Bodbay is closer to Signagi than Lostridge is.
TomAnd we were just talking about Lostridge being signagi.
TomYes.
TomSorry.
TomIf we're talking about attractions that are at Signagi, pretty much.
TomYou can walk.
TomYou can walk from Signagi.
TomIt's like a 25, 30 minutes walk up the hill, something like that.
TomYou want to walk to Bod bay.
TomThis was the final sort of religious site of Saint Nino who established Christianity, or at least brought Christianity to Georgia.
MegA jewish lady from Cappadocia who introduced Christianity to Georgia.
TomYeah.
MegIn the fourth century.
TomIn the fourth century.
TomAnd she had a bit of a life.
TomThe exact length is not fully documented exactly how long she was around.
TomBut during the fourth century, she crossed Georgia a bit and she ended up finally in Signagi.
TomAnd there was her final sort of establishment of Christianity.
TomAnd she is believed to be, or at least as part of legend, she is buried below the bodbay convent and complex down in the valley near the river.
TomSo not that far.
TomYou can walk down to it if you want to.
MegAnd it still is an act of nunnery even today.
TomYes.
MegI think I've mentioned this in past podcast episodes that if you go to a site in Georgia that is an active nunnery, you're gonna get a great garden.
TomYeah.
MegThe nuns take good care of the gardens.
TomMonks are busy making wine or beer, mainly wine in Georgia.
TomAnd the nuns are busy making the garden.
TomAmazing.
MegYeah.
MegSo if you really like gardens, then you can always go to a nunnery and you'll be like, oh, this is a pleasant place.
MegThis is nice.
TomYeah, it's.
TomIt's very well kept.
TomDuring the season, it is very, very busy.
TomThey built, like, a new car park area because they had so many people coming through during the season, so you can expect to see big buses there, which is another reason, if you're staying overnight, you can turn up, like, first thing in the morning before the big buses have really started to overrun the place or go during the winter.
TomSo this was originally a fourth century site, and as with most of the georgian religious sites, they then built more permanent structures later on.
TomAnd the structure that's currently there was appropriated by the Soviets because during soviet time, there was no religion and it was turned into a non religious area.
TomAnd then after the Soviets left, it's been restored and brought back to its sort of religious status again.
TomSo, yeah, very cool place to go.
TomLots of different buildings around it.
TomIt is a full complex.
TomIt's not just one church or anything.
TomYou can spend 20 minutes there, or you could spend an hour and a half there.
TomIf you want to walk down to the little river stream area and see the burial site, or at least the area where it's marked.
TomThere's like a small building down there as well.
TomIt's like the most popular religious site in that area.
TomEverybody knows about it.
TomAnd every tour goes to this site.
TomApart from our tour, we are too busy eating and drinking on our tour, and I think the old town itself, in terms of sightseeing and pictures and whatever, is maybe more interesting.
TomSo if you're on a very, very, very quick trip and you don't have 30 minutes to stop there, or you're too busy drinking, which I normally am, then maybe up to you if you're going to stop there or not.
TomAnd, yeah, it's a bit too touristy for us as well.
TomThat's another reason we don't like to do really touristy stuff on our itineraries, mainly.
MegYeah, it's got to the point where there's sort of, like, little souvenir shops have been set up in the car park and stuff like that now.
MegIt's just a little too touristy for our likings.
TomYeah.
TomYeah.
TomYeah.
TomAll right.
TomSo, anything else on the agenda?
MegI mean, I think that covers a lot.
MegIt's a very.
MegIt's a very small city, town, place, village, zone.
TomSatillage.
TomIt's a very small satillage.
MegSo, you know, it is a very brief visit.
MegBut, yeah, great wines.
MegSome great restaurants that you can visit, go to the museum.
MegIs there anything else that we forgot?
TomI mean, yeah, walking around the town itself, going to the craft markets, there's.
MegA lot of handcraft stuff where women have crocheted different things or local jam spreads and all that sort of stuff.
TomIt'S not going to be the cheapest place to buy this sort of stuff, but it's not overpriced yet.
TomIt's just a always a little bit inflated.
MegOh, my goodness.
MegDo you know what we forgot, Tom?
TomWhat?
MegWe forgot to tell everybody.
TomWhy?
MegIt's the city of love.
MegOh, we mentioned it in the beginning and then just completely buried that, Lee.
TomSo there is something else on this list.
TomCity of love.
TomWhy is it the city of love?
MegWell, that is because up until stupid Covid face ruined things, it actually had a 24 hours wedding chapel there.
TomSo, yeah, the Vegas without the Vegas part.
TomNo casinos, but there was a guy.
MegDressed in definitely no else money who could marry you.
MegNo, that's not true.
TomOh, my God.
TomNo, no, that's not true.
TomThere is not.
MegBasically, if you're young and in love, or not so young and in love, if you're in love, love is beautiful and you could run off to signagi no matter what time of day and go and get married.
MegIn fact, when we got married, we got married in Tbilisi.
MegPeople were shocked that we didn't go to Sagnagi to get married, because it's just what you did.
MegWe got married in 2018.
MegSo now, sadly, after Covid, while the chapel has reopened, it's not 24 hours anymore.
TomYou need to book in advance.
MegYeah.
TomAnd best to sort out your paperwork in advance, probably in Tbilisi because it's gonna be a bit more efficient.
TomSo do the actual paperwork part and then take all that over to the chapel if you want to get married there.
MegWe've got an article on getting married in Georgia old.
MegThrow it into the show notes.
MegIf you're feeling a little romantic marriage y marriagey.
TomIf you need to get a bit marriagey, then, yeah, go do it.
MegThat's why it's the city of love.
MegAnd also, you know what, there's beautiful, the homes are just, you know, beautiful architecture and it's the cobblestone streets and it's sort of like this fairy tale kind of city, village, place, zone area.
TomSomeone who is being a bit too critical, in my opinion, said it was a bit too Disneyland for them.
MegNo, but it's real.
TomBut it's real.
TomIt's renovated real, though it was in a bit of a state in the early, like, after the soviet era, people.
MegAre allowed to renovate without it being called Disney.
TomI know.
TomI thought that was very unfair.
TomBut if you're wanting that sort of Disney feel of a real old town that has a little bit of that mystic and magic to it, with the mountain views as well.
TomIt is beautiful.
MegThere's something in the air.
MegWhen you get to Sagnagi, there's something in the air and you might just be swept up and feel like getting married.
TomIt's not the.
TomThe smell from the edibles or whatever.
TomThe burning edibles.
TomThat's Finetti.
MegThe only edibles is mitzvah.
MegAnd that is pork.
TomYeah.
TomAnd that's good bread.
TomThat's good.
TomThe pork is very good.
TomAnd so, accommodation wise, we said there's lots of different places to stay.
MegEverything from guest houses all the way through to five star hotels, tiny little.
TomHomestay family places where you're paying sort of $15 a night, or all the way up to.
TomYeah, four star.
TomI wouldn't say there's anything that's genuinely five star in Signagi or in Karketti even.
TomIt's a stretch to say that Sinondale estate is a five star, but not much else is really actually five star, even if it says it is.
TomI'm ready to be proven wrong.
TomWhen someone.
TomIf you open a five star hotel and you think it really is five.
MegStar, we are waiting to review your hotel.
TomYeah, yeah.
TomCome and prove to me.
MegOffice and email.
TomI will pop in and tell you.
MegWhether it's a five star hotel if.
TomIt meets my international five star standards, which currently, Sinondale Estate is the only one that's really close to that.
MegAll right, so, quick roundup.
MegPractical tips for visiting Signagi.
MegAs we said, you can go there all year round.
MegGenerally, as Tom mentioned, if you go there in the winter, early spring, and on a crisp, beautiful day, that's when you're gonna get some fantastic shots.
TomYep.
MegAlso some great views, but you can go any.
MegAny time of year.
MegIf you are here during the peak summer months, when a lot of tourists do come to Georgia, it's much cooler there.
TomSo, yeah, I mean, it's like three degrees cooler than down in the valley, I guess, something like that.
MegWays to get there.
MegYou can book a tour with.
MegEat this tours.
TomShameless plug signagi tour.
TomAnd we also do a signagi winter wine tour, which is focused on.
TomIt's pretty much the same sort of stuff we do on the summer one, except it's focused on the mountain views and the bit of the snow, which obviously we can't guarantee, but where there is often snow and fireplaces.
TomSo if you want a glass of wine by the fireplace or even some mead.
TomYeah, well, I wouldn't promise that.
MegWasn't one of the family doing mead last year?
TomWell, no, they were doing mulled wine.
MegOh, is that what I meant?
TomMulled wine?
TomAnd we do like Christmas foods as well, so you actually get to have a short cooking class to learn about a couple of Christmas foods that are made in Georgia.
TomEven if you're here in March, we still do the Christmas food stuff through until sort of late March, when the snow is starting to melt.
TomBut, yeah, so we've got that.
TomAnd the summer tour as well, without those bits, but still all the signagi, all the wine and Supra.
TomWe do Supra at the end of that one.
TomSo if you haven't read about Supra or listened about Supra, go back and listen to one of our episodes on that, because Supra is really fun.
MegYou can, of course, rent a car and drive up there, which a lot of people do.
MegI don't recommend it.
MegI think Georgians would be crazy on the road and you're crazy if you try to drive with them, but that's an option.
MegYou can also hire go trip, for example.
MegYou can hire a driver to take you up there for the day.
MegGo trip is a really great option.
MegOr you can, if you're really on a budget, you can take a mashuka up there.
MegThey are the blue micro buses.
TomSome of them are different colors because they're like private ones.
TomThe ones in the Tbilisi city are all been replaced with blue micro buses, mini buses.
TomBut the countryside ones could be anything.
TomIt could be an old bus, it could be a new bus, could be anything.
TomBut they are cramped, but they are very cheap.
TomThey run pretty frequently, I think, from Audachala bus station in Tbilisi.
MegYeah.
MegAuditschala is the bus station, is the way, is where to get the machukas from, and that's the cheapen.
TomYeah.
TomI don't like cheerfulness.
MegNo, it's not cheerful.
TomI've already been on a few and I've sort of decided not really to do them anymore, but I don't know.
MegI'm Bougie now.
MegYeah, I'm in my forties, I'm Bougie.
MegI don't do that.
TomTake the train.
TomBut there's no train.
TomThere's no train to signagi.
TomTake the train somewhere else.
MegYeah.
MegWhat we do is we take a tour.
MegEat these tours.
MegDid we mention we.
TomI think we might have mentioned this.
MegDid we mention it?
MegI don't think we did.
TomMight have mentioned this a little bit.
TomI mean, at least it means there's no designated driver.
TomThe march shuka doesn't stop at wineries.
TomJust saying.
MegYeah, no, that's a valid point.
MegAll right, so signagi.
TomIt's a place.
TomSo that's it for this episode, I guess.
TomIt's a place that we like.
MegIt's a wonderful place.
TomThat was not my review.
TomIt wasn't.
TomIt's a place.
TomTwo stars.
TomIt's like.
TomIt's a place that we like.
TomFive stars.
MegYou absolutely should add it to your Georgia itinerary.
TomThere's a reason everyone goes there.
TomBecause it is great.
MegIt's beautiful.
TomYeah.
TomBut, yeah, you can do it in a few hours.
TomYou don't need to spend the whole day there.
TomBut we normally stay overnight.
TomI think it's more pleasant to stay overnight.
MegYep.
MegSo I will add the links to different articles and things that we've mentioned in the show notes so you can find all of that in one nice little place.
MegAnd you don't have to do too much searching or.
MegYeah, basically head to eatthistours.com.
Megand we've got articles on signagi.
MegWe've got different information about some of our favorite wineries we like to visit in that region.
MegAnd also just different information about what you can do in Georgia in general.
MegPlan your whole trip through our website.
MegYou don't have to book the tour.
MegWe're just giving you information.
TomYeah, but you could book the tour if you want to.
TomI'm just saying.
MegDo we have a tour company?
TomI think there's a tour.
MegOh, there's a tour.
TomThere might be tours available to signal.
MegYou'll have to go to the website and find out and let me know.
TomBut, I mean, be careful because we will get you a lot of wine and food.
TomYou're gonna be full by the end.
TomSorry about that.
TomThat's just what we do.
MegAll right, let's.
MegLet's stop rambling and wrap up this episode.
MegThanks again for listening.
MegWe will hopefully have some more episodes coming out in sometime, at some point.
TomAt some juncture in the future.
MegBut if you're listening, thank you.
MegWe appreciate you and we hope that you'll come back and listen to some more.
TomBye for now.
MegThanks for listening to the Tibbolissi podcast.
MegConnect with us@tibbolissypodcast.com where you can find all relevant social media links join our email newsletter and discover more about travel, tours and expat services in Georgia.
MegThis show is brought to you by foodfundtravel.com, comma, expathub dot ge and ethistours.com.