Meg

Gama jobber.

Meg

This is the Tivolisi podcast covering life, travel and more in the country of Georgia, brought to you by foodfundtravel.com, comma, expathub, dot, ge and eat thistours.com.

Meg

hello, hello, hello.

Meg

Welcome to another episode of the Tbilisi podcast, a show about life and travel in Tipilisi and Georgia.

Meg

I'm your host, Meg.

Meg

I've been gone for a while.

Meg

I think.

Meg

I think we haven't released anything in a year.

Meg

Whoops.

Tom

Oh, is it that long?

Meg

Does anyone remember?

Tom

Many months.

Meg

Hello, I'm Meg.

Meg

Nice to meet you again.

Tom

Lucky people.

Tom

Just keep listening to the old episodes.

Tom

Not that they're that old.

Meg

That is true.

Tom

2023 stuff still up there.

Meg

And of course, that other voice you can hear is Tom.

Meg

Hi, Tom.

Tom

Hey, how's it going, everybody?

Tom

Nice to be back.

Meg

Yes, thank you to everybody that has messaged us since we have.

Meg

We've been really busy.

Meg

We've been crazy busy.

Tom

Tour season is insane this year compared to last year.

Tom

It's much, much, much, much, much busier.

Meg

That's why we haven't released anything new in quite a while.

Meg

But we're here.

Meg

Thank you to everyone that messaged us saying that you listened to the episodes that we do have out and that you found the information really useful.

Meg

We love hearing from you guys, so thank you so much for messaging.

Meg

In response to that, we've got a new episode.

Meg

Huzzah.

Tom

Yes.

Tom

Ready to release some new stuff and maybe some more episodes coming this year.

Tom

Let's hope so.

Meg

Let's hope so.

Meg

But this episode we are doing today is all about Signagi.

Meg

It's one of the main places that people do want to visit when they're coming to Georgia.

Meg

It's one of the main tours that we run and we thought we'd give you guys just a little bit more information about what is Signagi.

Meg

Why is it so cool?

Meg

Why should you go there?

Meg

What's going on?

Tom

Mmm.

Tom

Yeah, well, it is cool.

Tom

I love Signagnagi.

Tom

I think it's very cute.

Tom

They've done a lovely job.

Tom

It's a mountain village in Karketi, just about an hour and 45 minutes, almost 2 hours from Tbilisi.

Tom

And you get incredible views of the Caucasus mountains from the city walls.

Tom

It's surrounded by fortifications about four and a half kilometers of city walls.

Tom

And we're gonna get into some more details as we go along.

Tom

But just setting a picture here as you get a, you get us a full panoramic view of the Caucasus mountains from Signagi and the little town village itself is.

Tom

It's technically legally a town.

Meg

I think it's a city.

Meg

I think it's one of Georgia's smallest cities.

Tom

I thought.

Tom

Yeah, well, maybe they've given it city status now, but the city of love, this is called the city of Love.

Tom

But then in the soviet era, it was nominated as a town, was finally established as a town, and that was quite a while ago.

Tom

So maybe they've officially given it city status, but it's a very small city if it is legally a city of only about 2000 permanent residents, isn't it?

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

Everyone else coming through as tourists and.

Meg

Yeah, it's one of those places that gets very quiet at night when all the tourists leave and then it's like bustling during the day and then it's very quiet again at night.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

So what are we going to talk about, signagi, this incredible mountain town, city, village?

Tom

What are we going to say?

Meg

So let's jump into it.

Meg

So we're going to talk a little bit about why it's the city of love, a little bit about the historical background, its unique charm, its beautiful architecture, lots and lots of different things.

Meg

Signagi has been, as most places in Georgia have been around for quite some time.

Meg

The area has been inhabited since the paleolithic era.

Tom

That's quite a long time ago.

Tom

I mean, I don't remember it personally.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

But sort of like the city, town area sort of as we know it more recently was formally established in 1762 by King Irakli II.

Meg

He was the king of Karketi and Cartly at that time.

Tom

Well, not of Cartli then.

Tom

He was the king of Karketi in 1762.

Tom

He eventually became the king of Cartli and Karketi a bit later when his father died.

Meg

Yes.

Tom

So we'll get into some of that history stuff later as well.

Meg

Yep.

Meg

But King Heraklia is really known for that sort of.

Meg

Definitely the Karketi area.

Tom

You see statues because he was the king of Karketti and he reunited Georgia.

Tom

He reunited central Georgia with Karketi, which hadn't been together for a few hundred years from before that, actually a persian semi autonomous area for quite a few hundred years.

Tom

And it eventually got ceded back to him by the Persians, which was very nice of them, but.

Tom

Well, was it nice of them?

Tom

No, they were having trouble with their own wars in other lands and decided they could trust King Orkla to look after that area and decided they didn't have time to look after anymore.

Tom

So he got it ceded back to him and he became the king of Karketi.

Meg

Apparently the town itself was actually formed as a strategy against the Persians.

Meg

You mentioned that before.

Tom

For coming back.

Tom

Yes, they were coming back.

Meg

We don't want you.

Tom

So how much did, did they put the trust in him?

Tom

And he was like, well, yeah, you trust me, but I don't trust you very much.

Meg

But that is one of the things when you are actually in Signagi, one of those things.

Meg

I find I do this a lot in certain places in Georgia.

Meg

I'll stand there and be like, yeah, I wouldn't want to be invading this space.

Meg

Like, you put yourself in the shoes of the invading army and you're like, that's a pretty big hill to climb.

Meg

I don't want to be climbing that hill.

Meg

Or if there's a big fortress here, which there is in Signagi, you're like, I don't want to be trying to take down that fortress.

Meg

That sounds hard.

Meg

Let's just, you know, go get some mead and go home.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

So, well, if you're persian, I don't know if you're drinking mead.

Meg

Not so much meadow.

Tom

Maybe not.

Tom

Depends which century we're talking about.

Tom

So.

Tom

Well, one of the things, of course, that we alluded to here is it's on a mountain, but it's on a mountain right above the Alizani valley.

Tom

And that means the Alazani valley is like the main winemaking valley of Karketi.

Tom

And that's where the Caucasus mountains are, on the other side of that valley.

Tom

And this is why the view is so amazing, because Signagi is a few hundred meters up from the central valley.

Tom

So, yes, if you're an invading army, you don't want to be climbing that hill to try and invade.

Tom

It's big, especially when they've built 5 walls around the outside.

Tom

So, yeah, yeah.

Tom

That wouldn't be a fun place to invade at all.

Tom

But they didn't build the walls straight away, did they?

Tom

First of all, Heraklay moved in, or started moving in in 1762 and decided to turn this into his summer palace to make the entire village at that time a summer palace.

Meg

Well, yeah, it's much cooler there, a.

Tom

Few hundred meters up from the valley.

Tom

Nice fresh breezes.

Tom

Yep.

Tom

Beautiful views.

Tom

I think if I was a king, I would choose that.

Tom

And even if I wasn't a king, if I was just looking to buy a hotel, maybe I would buy one there.

Tom

It's a nice spot for it.

Meg

It is, it is, it is.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

So back in the day, the way that they actually settled the town was they gave armenian and georgian merchants, they were encouraged to settle there because they got tax privileges.

Meg

So that's how they actually got people to move in once.

Meg

Once Erekli had things set up there.

Meg

And because of that, it actually really became an important trade hub as well.

Meg

So for the people that were welcome, they set up a lot of trade and it was like a really important place for that.

Meg

People who are not welcome, you're like, you can stay away.

Meg

And here's my walls.

Tom

Yeah, well, I mean, this is sort of the georgian history, really, isn't it?

Tom

If you're welcome, then come in and have some wine.

Tom

And if you're not welcome because you're about to invade us, then we will slaughter you.

Meg

Yeah, that's the way it rolls in Georgia.

Tom

So, yeah, that is the georgian strategy.

Tom

Makes sense.

Meg

Anyway, that is a very, very brief sort of little background about how it all started.

Meg

We'll talk about like, a little bit more about everything in a little bit.

Meg

But let's start because the most things people are not listening to this podcast are not for a history lesson.

Meg

They want to know what to do in signagi.

Tom

Fun things.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

So let's do that first.

Tom

All right.

Tom

So what's the number one thing?

Tom

What do you think's the best thing to do in signagi?

Meg

Explore the walls.

Tom

Well, I mean, we're not reinventing the wheel here, but it's true.

Tom

You are going to want to do a quick walk along the walls.

Meg

Well, the thing we didn't actually mention is it's one of those places where you can actually get up and walk along the walls.

Meg

You can climb it.

Meg

There's like going up to it.

Meg

Yeah, there's a small section that you can actually go along.

Meg

And no matter what season it is, it's actually really interesting to go and visit that section of the wall and take your photos and stuff like that because it's open in winter and it's all covered in snow and the Alizani valley is all covered in snow.

Meg

Or you can go in spring when everything's just flowering.

Meg

Definitely in winter and spring, your views might not be as fantastic.

Tom

I think the view in winter is significantly better because if it's a crisp, clear day, you can see the mountains perfectly.

Meg

That is true.

Tom

My best photos are from winter.

Tom

Summer it gets a little hazy.

Meg

That is true.

Meg

That's a really good point.

Tom

I think winter is true.

Meg

I was thinking more like just like cloudy, bad weather days.

Meg

But happen that often?

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

I mean, we also have some pretty nice winter days.

Tom

It might not be warm, especially not up there.

Tom

And there may be snow all over the place, but it's going to be crisp and clear on some of those days, so you pick the right day and you're going to get amazing photos.

Meg

That's true, yeah.

Tom

During the summer, if it's a cloudy day, then you're just going to seize.

Meg

Haze above the mountaintops, especially if you're coming from Tbilisi.

Meg

If you do go out there in the summer days and you spend the night in Signagi and get up early in the morning, then you can get some really good views.

Tom

Yeah, yeah.

Tom

Early start, if you want the best views, for sure.

Tom

One of the other things that's changed, and one of the other reasons I like the winter, is because you get all the snow caps on the mountains and even more than just the caps, whereas in the middle of summer, the snow's pretty much gone by the end of May.

Tom

And apparently, speaking to some georgian friends here, they say that their parents used to say 40 years ago that there was always snow on the tops of the mountains for the entire year, even in August.

Tom

And it's not true anymore.

Meg

Thanks.

Meg

Climate change.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

Climate change is real people.

Tom

If you don't believe it, you're denying the wrong thing.

Tom

This is definitely happening.

Tom

Definitely.

Tom

If you want the snow caps, then between early December and late April, you're still gonna have some snow.

Tom

I've been out there this summer as well, and there was still a little bit of snow left in June, but really it was pretty much all gone by June, so even may, probably not.

Tom

All right, so, yeah, you walk the city walls, it actually only takes like, 20 minutes.

Tom

You climb up at one end in the village, and then you walk down the walls to the other end, and then you can walk back up the street or back up the walls up to you.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

Or if you're on a tour like ours, then the driver picks you up at the bottom, or can pick you up at the bottom, depending on whether you want to walk up the hill again or not.

Meg

That's the part that you can climb, but you can also just walk around different parts of the city and see different parts of the wall and take photos and do stuff like that.

Meg

So, exploring the walls, like, to actually climb the walls, maybe 20 minutes.

Meg

Actually exploring the walls all over the city takes a fair bit longer.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

I mean, if you want to walk around the main areas as well, you're going to want at least an hour to walk around and walk along the walls.

Tom

And that's for a relatively speedy sort of visit.

Tom

That's the sort of visit that the average tour group is doing, like any tour you're going to go on is maybe doing 40 to 50 minutes total, but that's it.

Tom

Walking on the walls is great.

Tom

Amazing views.

Tom

You can see the walls on the other ridges opposite the city.

Tom

So it really is such a long wall that you can just watch it wrap around the entire place.

Meg

I read somewhere that it's one of the longest continuous walls, town walls in Europe.

Tom

Yeah, it is one of the longest.

Tom

It's not the longest, but I think it's in like, the top ten or something.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

And in Georgia, it's definitely the longest.

Meg

The great wall of Georgia.

Tom

The great Wall of Georgia.

Tom

You can call it this.

Tom

So, yeah, that's the number one attraction.

Tom

What else have we got?

Meg

Okay.

Meg

Another thing I really love doing when I visit Signagi is going to the museum.

Meg

I'm a museum person.

Meg

I love going to museums.

Meg

I love learning things.

Meg

I don't like going to a place and not learning something new.

Meg

And the signagi museum, it actually, I will admit it took me a while, a couple of visits to signagi before I actually visited the museum.

Meg

And that's why I'm saying straight off the bat, go visit the museum.

Meg

It's good.

Meg

Don't put it off because I really enjoyed it.

Tom

I think mainly I love the Piras mani exhibit upstairs.

Meg

I mean, you can get certain museums where there's like, oh, here's some spears and here's some clay pots.

Meg

It's a lot.

Meg

You do get a lot of that.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

And this museum has some of that.

Meg

One of the famous people from the region, his name was Niko Pirasmani and he was born in a village nearby, Signagi.

Meg

We did a full episode on it.

Meg

You can go back and listen to that full episode if you want to find out all about Nico Pirouzmati.

Meg

But one of the cool things about the Signagi museum is they actually have some of his original paintings there that you can go and see.

Meg

Don't make my mistake.

Meg

I thought they weren't real.

Meg

I thought they were remakes.

Meg

And I stepped over the line to take a closer look.

Meg

Security were on you in seconds there that grandma hauled.

Meg

Grandma's security.

Meg

She was there to rouse on me.

Meg

She was like, no, they're real.

Meg

And I was like, oh, my bad.

Meg

So they're real.

Meg

But Nico Pirosmania is, like, really, really important in georgian art history.

Meg

So to actually get to go and see the originals, I thought was really, really cool.

Tom

Yeah, no, I like the museum.

Tom

It's good.

Tom

So you need about maybe 30 minutes for that museum.

Tom

It's really not that big a museum.

Meg

It depends on what sort of museum person you are.

Tom

Yeah, yeah.

Tom

If you want to read every single plaque and know what every spearhead was made of or whatever, then, yeah, might take a bit longer, but, yeah, 30 minutes, I think, for the average visitor, average tourist would be enough.

Meg

All right, what's next?

Meg

What else would you say to do in signage?

Tom

I don't know.

Tom

Do you want to talk about wine?

Tom

Because mainly all I want to do is talk about wine.

Meg

Okay.

Tom

I'm having to listen to you talk about sightseeing or whatever.

Tom

I don't know.

Tom

We talk about wine.

Meg

All right.

Meg

What wines do you rate in Sagnagi?

Tom

All right, so because this area is elevated, it's a few hundred meters up from the valley.

Tom

There's not actually much viticulture going on in and around the city itself.

Meg

They're all down in the valley.

Tom

They're mainly down in the valley.

Tom

There are a few that are sort of close to signagi in higher elevation, but they're not, like, right there.

Tom

So what you get in Signagi is cellar doors.

Tom

You don't get vineyards.

Tom

So if you want to go to some cellar doors, you want to go try some wines, maybe meet some winemakers, if you're lucky as well, then there's definitely a few places to go to.

Tom

Now, all the guidebooks say the first off thing they're going to list is pheasants tears.

Tom

Everyone's heard of pheasants tears.

Tom

They're really good at promoting themselves, and everyone knows who they are.

Tom

They've done a lot of work with the georgian community and really promoted the natural wine scene around.

Tom

So that's one place that you could go.

Tom

But I wanted to talk about some other places that are a little bit more.

Meg

They don't get so much promotion and definitely deserve to be heard.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

Places that, you know, you might enjoy more because they're less well known, you get a little bit more off the beaten track.

Tom

So what have we got?

Tom

My number one pick is going to be ceravani.

Meg

Every time.

Tom

Ceravani is part of the natural wine association.

Tom

I think they make fantastic wines.

Tom

They're really, really solid amounts of care put into the wines they make.

Tom

It's all small batch stuff.

Tom

Their wine room is sort of very central in Signagi.

Tom

It has a nice view, not towards the Caucasus, but in the other direction.

Tom

And I think their yard is really lovely to sit in.

Tom

And then Marani is actually right there, so they make the wines there.

Tom

Unlike pheasants tears, which is in signagi, pheasants tears is just a restaurant.

Tom

So it's a restaurant where you can taste wines made by them.

Tom

But the marani is not there.

Tom

It's actually quite a long way from there.

Tom

It's like a 30, 40 minutes drive in Tibani.

Tom

I think Caravani is more of an interesting stop for people who are not just casual wine enthusiasts, but people who want to go and try something and probably meet the winemaker.

Tom

The winemakers, there's two of them, Archil and Ilya is his cousin.

Tom

They work together and make wine, but Archil is like the main guy, so they're there most of the time.

Tom

One of them is there, or someone from the family's there.

Tom

And it's a much more sort of family oriented place where pheasant steers.

Tom

You're gonna mainly have one of the waiters or maybe the wine host would serve you.

Tom

You wouldn't actually meet the winemaker normally.

Tom

Yeah, I've never met him there.

Tom

I've been a few times and I've never met him there.

Tom

And I haven't met the owner either.

Tom

So I think they're joint owners, actually.

Tom

Anyway, so that's probably my number one.

Tom

Caravani would be where I'd go for a really sort of personal experience.

Tom

Meet the winemaker, sort of thing.

Meg

Yep.

Meg

Nice quarry wines.

Meg

And they also do a pet nat as well, which is the georgian sparkling wine.

Tom

Better to book in advance.

Tom

They are open all day, but better to book in advance.

Meg

They're not big, so definitely book in advance.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

Groups are going through all the time.

Tom

We have groups going there almost every day during the season.

Tom

Sometimes we have two groups a day going there during the season.

Tom

You could also join one of our tours if you want to get a guaranteed spot with other people, because we book everything in advance, so.

Tom

Ethisthistours.com plug.

Tom

You know who I am already, if you're listening to this podcast.

Tom

Come on.

Tom

That's my number one.

Tom

We go there a lot.

Tom

My number two, which I shouldn't say number two, because it's also actually really fantastic.

Tom

It's just a different vibe.

Meg

The second one that we're making, mentioning this is in no particular order, also.

Tom

Makes really interesting natural wines, is cradle of wine, which is just a little bit up behind the village.

Tom

So you get a really nice view of Signaghi town itself.

Tom

So I think it's great to sit there either inside or even on the terrace.

Tom

And it's a wonderful place for a view.

Tom

Makes some very interesting wines.

Tom

The winemaker, Paul, is actually american, but he's lived in Georgia for like, 15 plus years now, so he's pretty much fully ingrained in society, so very much taking seriously everything.

Tom

Georgian traditions.

Tom

He's a really interesting guy to meet.

Tom

If you're there, do go and visit them.

Tom

Also worth booking in advance, although they might take walk ins.

Tom

They have sessions in the afternoon.

Tom

Normally, if you turn up at the right time and the session times may change.

Tom

So do contact them first to check, then you might get in a session there.

Tom

Otherwise they probably tell you to come back in an hour or something.

Tom

When they've got another group in that.

Meg

Sort of thing, expect to try some really kooky wines there.

Meg

They've got their standards that are fantastic.

Meg

Paul likes to experiment.

Tom

Yeah, I mean, I love some of the experiments.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

So it could be pushing your boundaries a bit more than Caravani, if you're onto the experimental stuff.

Tom

But he's pretty good.

Tom

And is the hosts who work there, he's not always there, by the way.

Tom

I'm not saying you're gonna meet him.

Tom

The hosts he has there will talk to you a little bit and probably figure out, they're like, oh, this person's not gonna want to try any of the crazy stuff.

Tom

Let's just stick to the normal ones.

Tom

But if you tell them you want crazy, they're gonna pull something out, probably.

Tom

That is a little wild.

Tom

So that's pretty fun as well.

Tom

Next on the list, slightly more famous.

Tom

And as I said, this is just a list.

Tom

No particular order as such.

Tom

Okro's wine.

Tom

And they've got a restaurant with views of the Caucasus.

Tom

The terrace upstairs is really small that has the views, so you would either want to book in advance or hope that it's not already got a load of people on it.

Tom

Good thing there is, you can pretty much get a wine tasting on the spot and they'll serve even one person.

Tom

I think Kervanni will serve one person if they've got bottles open, but if they've got nothing open, they might be a little bit more hesitant about that and you want to join a group.

Tom

So Okrose is very easy, and they also make natural wines, and they've famously been making natural wines since around 2004.

Tom

They've got a lot of pedigree behind them and they've got a big selection of different wines.

Tom

Different family members make their own wines as well.

Tom

And you have options to taste various things while you're there.

Tom

And the food's good as well.

Tom

Yeah, traditional georgian food.

Tom

So, yeah, caravani do food as well.

Tom

And cradle of wine also do food, if you book in advance, a bit more of the sort of buffet.

Tom

Not buffet, but like.

Tom

Yeah, not like full a la carte menu or anything, or just being like service of certain dishes.

Tom

And it's like a set menu thing that you get with the wine tasting.

Tom

So there's my top three.

Tom

My three picks that I would recommend for people to go and try.

Meg

Yep.

Meg

I also will just throw in a little mention if wine isn't your thing, which, you know, some people do come here and they don't really love wine just outside of signagi.

Meg

So it's sort of.

Meg

Signagi region is a place called lost Ridge and they are actually a microbrewery, so you can get some good beers from there.

Meg

If you're more into the beers than the wines, then you can definitely drop into lost Ridgeon.

Meg

Have yourself a Luigi.

Tom

Ludi.

Meg

Ludi.

Meg

I just said blue.

Meg

You said, ludi, you can have yourself a blue.

Meg

You have a blue.

Tom

It's not that sort of place.

Tom

It's not a blue place, Ludi.

Tom

Definitely more of a beer place.

Tom

And they have great accommodation as well.

Tom

Really nice.

Tom

Sort of small.

Tom

Not not small, sort of boutique.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

Boutique hotel rooms.

Tom

And it's on the other side of the ridge.

Tom

So it's the lost ridge, not the main ridge.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

There's a horse ranch there as well.

Tom

There's a horse ranch.

Tom

The rooms are great and you've got views in the other direction.

Tom

Not at the Caucasus, but it's a quieter.

Tom

It's not where all the tourists go.

Meg

So we've spoken about wine, we've spoken about beer and now there's only one.

Tom

Natural thing to speak about next, I guess the munchables.

Tom

The edibles.

Tom

That's the wrong word for it.

Tom

It's not that sort of town either.

Tom

City.

Tom

I'm just going to call it village town city, interchangeably.

Tom

You guys can research for yourself what.

Meg

We legally think it is.

Meg

Edibles.

Meg

You're not getting edibles there.

Tom

Yeah, but things that are edible.

Tom

There are definitely some restaurants that you can head to, as we mentioned, caravani do do food as well.

Tom

But you need to normally book that in advance.

Tom

It is not a restaurant.

Tom

It is very much.

Tom

If you've got a group and you want to book in advance, order some food.

Tom

And okros, of course, we mentioned already.

Tom

So where else is interesting?

Tom

I think what's interesting is ammo and also the terrace.

Tom

Both of these are not in the main town, they're up the ridge behind the town, which is still part of Signagi.

Tom

But it means you've got a view over Signagi as well as to the mountains.

Tom

Whereas all the ones down where the city walls section is that you can walk where, like the center of the old town is where you can go through and see all the little craft stalls and everything else.

Tom

That's a bit touristy, but not too crazy touristy.

Tom

That section, you only get views of the mountains, whereas from up the top, where Amo and the terrace are, you get amazing views of the town and the mountains.

Tom

There's a whole bunch of photos on our website of this, I think, because.

Tom

Yeah, I love that view.

Tom

I think that's, like the best view.

Meg

It is like one of the best views in Georgia.

Meg

Can I say in Georgia?

Meg

It is.

Meg

It is.

Meg

In Georgia.

Meg

It's one of the best views.

Tom

You got the mountains, you've got the city walls, you've got the town itself, you've got the church.

Tom

Everything from up there you can sort of see from the top.

Tom

And both of those restaurants consistently doing solidly good food.

Tom

Both have a nice seating area.

Tom

Ammo has this sort of glass section that they put over in the winter.

Tom

So you can actually sit in sort of a conservatory style area that's perched on the side of the cliff and have a nice view without being as cold.

Tom

And the terrace has a terrace, of course.

Meg

Of course.

Tom

So both of these places, the foods you're going to be getting traditional georgian food.

Tom

And there's quite a large selection.

Tom

The wine lists there are a little bit just meh, average stuff, but not like bad stuff.

Tom

I just mean, like, you're not getting any.

Tom

Or at least the last few times I've been there, you weren't getting any wild and crazy wines.

Tom

You're getting your regular selection of sort of the medium sized and larger wineries, which is still some good wine.

Tom

So you want to eat with an amazing view.

Tom

I'd suggest you take a little trip just up the hill.

Tom

So like a ten minute taxi ride, if that.

Tom

Like a five minute taxi ride.

Tom

Or walk up there and they're open.

Tom

I think in the evenings, the terrace gets really a bit party and they're like live music.

Tom

Not live music, but like loud music might be on.

Tom

I've heard that feedback from some people.

Tom

Okay, mostly we go there during the daytime because that's when tours go through and whatever.

Tom

So that's one thing to consider.

Tom

Maybe check with them before you book.

Tom

If you're not going to want to have a massive speaker next to your head blasting some georgian pop music.

Meg

Yep.

Tom

But still both great.

Meg

Oh, also forgot to mention before, Lost Ridge is vegetarian.

Tom

Yes.

Tom

But they do have meat dishes.

Meg

Do they?

Meg

But they're predominantly.

Tom

Predominantly vegan, vegetarian focused.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

And they do have some really good vegan vegetarian food as well.

Tom

But they do have some meat dishes for those who want to eat meat, which most people going, I guess, do.

Meg

I don't know, especially Georgians, I'm pointing out to people that mostly don't want to eat meat.

Tom

Yeah.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

That's where you could go.

Tom

Yeah, yeah.

Tom

You could go to lost Ridge, for sure.

Meg

All right, so, because signagi is a really small city town village, we should.

Tom

Have just looked up what the official decision was on this.

Tom

No, I prefer it.

Tom

We'll just stick with this.

Meg

There's only, like, a certain amount of things that you can do within the city, and then there's, you know, other things you can do surround.

Tom

City town village.

Meg

Yes.

Meg

So, yeah, you go there during the day mostly.

Meg

If you wanted to stay overnight, there's some great places to stay.

Tom

Hey, there's loads of places to stay overnight.

Tom

But I'm always surprised that I think people maybe have busy days out on tours or driving around, and then they just pass out and you don't feel like the place is pumping at night.

Tom

I'm not going out going like, every table's full.

Tom

Even in the middle of summer when I've been there, I'm like, well, yeah, there's a few people out, but it's not just crazy.

Tom

Whereas during the day, bus tour after bus tour can be coming through during that July August busiest period.

Tom

Another reason to go in winter, if you want quiet during the day, it's very peaceful.

Meg

Yeah, it's lovely.

Meg

But are there any attractions nearby, Signagi, that you would recommend?

Meg

People drop in and check out?

Tom

We're already leaving, signagi.

Tom

I mean, I can talk about wine forever.

Tom

As you know, the crazy thing is that there isn't any really notable attraction, attractions that I would specifically recommend other than wineries in that area.

Tom

It is very wine focused.

Tom

There are some interesting.

Tom

There's an interesting old wine factory down in Cardenaki, which has over 700 quevres, which is Cardenaki wine factory number one.

Tom

It's a bit of a dark tourist spot, in my opinion, because most of them are not being used anymore.

Tom

They're making a little bit of wine there, but they're not really utilizing that huge 19th century sort of warehouse of wine making that obviously used to be making a lot.

Tom

And now it's a bit dilapidated, but it's super interesting to go and see because it's one.

Tom

It's one of the biggest.

Tom

I think it might be the biggest amount of quveries all in one space.

Tom

700.

Tom

It's spread across like two spaces on the site, but they're right next to each other.

Meg

It's the most I've ever seen.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

I was like, wow.

Tom

Yeah, this place is amazing.

Tom

So for a bit of dark tourism, just pay for the tasting.

Tom

I don't know what it is, like 30, 40 lorri.

Tom

And then you can go in and see the whole place as well and try a couple of wines.

Tom

But nerf or attractions wise, specific attractions.

Tom

Whenever people say, what else are we going to do near Signagi?

Tom

I go drive towards Tilavi.

Meg

Well, what about the Bodma monastery?

Tom

Oh, okay, so by outside of Signagi, you mean literally next to Signagi?

Tom

Within like 1 meter of signagi.

Tom

Bodbay is so close to Signagi, I almost consider it as being sagnagi.

Tom

It's right there.

Tom

I mean, Bodbay is closer to Signagi than Lostridge is.

Tom

And we were just talking about Lostridge being signagi.

Tom

Yes.

Tom

Sorry.

Tom

If we're talking about attractions that are at Signagi, pretty much.

Tom

You can walk.

Tom

You can walk from Signagi.

Tom

It's like a 25, 30 minutes walk up the hill, something like that.

Tom

You want to walk to Bod bay.

Tom

This was the final sort of religious site of Saint Nino who established Christianity, or at least brought Christianity to Georgia.

Meg

A jewish lady from Cappadocia who introduced Christianity to Georgia.

Tom

Yeah.

Meg

In the fourth century.

Tom

In the fourth century.

Tom

And she had a bit of a life.

Tom

The exact length is not fully documented exactly how long she was around.

Tom

But during the fourth century, she crossed Georgia a bit and she ended up finally in Signagi.

Tom

And there was her final sort of establishment of Christianity.

Tom

And she is believed to be, or at least as part of legend, she is buried below the bodbay convent and complex down in the valley near the river.

Tom

So not that far.

Tom

You can walk down to it if you want to.

Meg

And it still is an act of nunnery even today.

Tom

Yes.

Meg

I think I've mentioned this in past podcast episodes that if you go to a site in Georgia that is an active nunnery, you're gonna get a great garden.

Tom

Yeah.

Meg

The nuns take good care of the gardens.

Tom

Monks are busy making wine or beer, mainly wine in Georgia.

Tom

And the nuns are busy making the garden.

Tom

Amazing.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

So if you really like gardens, then you can always go to a nunnery and you'll be like, oh, this is a pleasant place.

Meg

This is nice.

Tom

Yeah, it's.

Tom

It's very well kept.

Tom

During the season, it is very, very busy.

Tom

They built, like, a new car park area because they had so many people coming through during the season, so you can expect to see big buses there, which is another reason, if you're staying overnight, you can turn up, like, first thing in the morning before the big buses have really started to overrun the place or go during the winter.

Tom

So this was originally a fourth century site, and as with most of the georgian religious sites, they then built more permanent structures later on.

Tom

And the structure that's currently there was appropriated by the Soviets because during soviet time, there was no religion and it was turned into a non religious area.

Tom

And then after the Soviets left, it's been restored and brought back to its sort of religious status again.

Tom

So, yeah, very cool place to go.

Tom

Lots of different buildings around it.

Tom

It is a full complex.

Tom

It's not just one church or anything.

Tom

You can spend 20 minutes there, or you could spend an hour and a half there.

Tom

If you want to walk down to the little river stream area and see the burial site, or at least the area where it's marked.

Tom

There's like a small building down there as well.

Tom

It's like the most popular religious site in that area.

Tom

Everybody knows about it.

Tom

And every tour goes to this site.

Tom

Apart from our tour, we are too busy eating and drinking on our tour, and I think the old town itself, in terms of sightseeing and pictures and whatever, is maybe more interesting.

Tom

So if you're on a very, very, very quick trip and you don't have 30 minutes to stop there, or you're too busy drinking, which I normally am, then maybe up to you if you're going to stop there or not.

Tom

And, yeah, it's a bit too touristy for us as well.

Tom

That's another reason we don't like to do really touristy stuff on our itineraries, mainly.

Meg

Yeah, it's got to the point where there's sort of, like, little souvenir shops have been set up in the car park and stuff like that now.

Meg

It's just a little too touristy for our likings.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

All right.

Tom

So, anything else on the agenda?

Meg

I mean, I think that covers a lot.

Meg

It's a very.

Meg

It's a very small city, town, place, village, zone.

Tom

Satillage.

Tom

It's a very small satillage.

Meg

So, you know, it is a very brief visit.

Meg

But, yeah, great wines.

Meg

Some great restaurants that you can visit, go to the museum.

Meg

Is there anything else that we forgot?

Tom

I mean, yeah, walking around the town itself, going to the craft markets, there's.

Meg

A lot of handcraft stuff where women have crocheted different things or local jam spreads and all that sort of stuff.

Tom

It'S not going to be the cheapest place to buy this sort of stuff, but it's not overpriced yet.

Tom

It's just a always a little bit inflated.

Meg

Oh, my goodness.

Meg

Do you know what we forgot, Tom?

Tom

What?

Meg

We forgot to tell everybody.

Tom

Why?

Meg

It's the city of love.

Meg

Oh, we mentioned it in the beginning and then just completely buried that, Lee.

Tom

So there is something else on this list.

Tom

City of love.

Tom

Why is it the city of love?

Meg

Well, that is because up until stupid Covid face ruined things, it actually had a 24 hours wedding chapel there.

Tom

So, yeah, the Vegas without the Vegas part.

Tom

No casinos, but there was a guy.

Meg

Dressed in definitely no else money who could marry you.

Meg

No, that's not true.

Tom

Oh, my God.

Tom

No, no, that's not true.

Tom

There is not.

Meg

Basically, if you're young and in love, or not so young and in love, if you're in love, love is beautiful and you could run off to signagi no matter what time of day and go and get married.

Meg

In fact, when we got married, we got married in Tbilisi.

Meg

People were shocked that we didn't go to Sagnagi to get married, because it's just what you did.

Meg

We got married in 2018.

Meg

So now, sadly, after Covid, while the chapel has reopened, it's not 24 hours anymore.

Tom

You need to book in advance.

Meg

Yeah.

Tom

And best to sort out your paperwork in advance, probably in Tbilisi because it's gonna be a bit more efficient.

Tom

So do the actual paperwork part and then take all that over to the chapel if you want to get married there.

Meg

We've got an article on getting married in Georgia old.

Meg

Throw it into the show notes.

Meg

If you're feeling a little romantic marriage y marriagey.

Tom

If you need to get a bit marriagey, then, yeah, go do it.

Meg

That's why it's the city of love.

Meg

And also, you know what, there's beautiful, the homes are just, you know, beautiful architecture and it's the cobblestone streets and it's sort of like this fairy tale kind of city, village, place, zone area.

Tom

Someone who is being a bit too critical, in my opinion, said it was a bit too Disneyland for them.

Meg

No, but it's real.

Tom

But it's real.

Tom

It's renovated real, though it was in a bit of a state in the early, like, after the soviet era, people.

Meg

Are allowed to renovate without it being called Disney.

Tom

I know.

Tom

I thought that was very unfair.

Tom

But if you're wanting that sort of Disney feel of a real old town that has a little bit of that mystic and magic to it, with the mountain views as well.

Tom

It is beautiful.

Meg

There's something in the air.

Meg

When you get to Sagnagi, there's something in the air and you might just be swept up and feel like getting married.

Tom

It's not the.

Tom

The smell from the edibles or whatever.

Tom

The burning edibles.

Tom

That's Finetti.

Meg

The only edibles is mitzvah.

Meg

And that is pork.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

And that's good bread.

Tom

That's good.

Tom

The pork is very good.

Tom

And so, accommodation wise, we said there's lots of different places to stay.

Meg

Everything from guest houses all the way through to five star hotels, tiny little.

Tom

Homestay family places where you're paying sort of $15 a night, or all the way up to.

Tom

Yeah, four star.

Tom

I wouldn't say there's anything that's genuinely five star in Signagi or in Karketti even.

Tom

It's a stretch to say that Sinondale estate is a five star, but not much else is really actually five star, even if it says it is.

Tom

I'm ready to be proven wrong.

Tom

When someone.

Tom

If you open a five star hotel and you think it really is five.

Meg

Star, we are waiting to review your hotel.

Tom

Yeah, yeah.

Tom

Come and prove to me.

Meg

Office and email.

Tom

I will pop in and tell you.

Meg

Whether it's a five star hotel if.

Tom

It meets my international five star standards, which currently, Sinondale Estate is the only one that's really close to that.

Meg

All right, so, quick roundup.

Meg

Practical tips for visiting Signagi.

Meg

As we said, you can go there all year round.

Meg

Generally, as Tom mentioned, if you go there in the winter, early spring, and on a crisp, beautiful day, that's when you're gonna get some fantastic shots.

Tom

Yep.

Meg

Also some great views, but you can go any.

Meg

Any time of year.

Meg

If you are here during the peak summer months, when a lot of tourists do come to Georgia, it's much cooler there.

Tom

So, yeah, I mean, it's like three degrees cooler than down in the valley, I guess, something like that.

Meg

Ways to get there.

Meg

You can book a tour with.

Meg

Eat this tours.

Tom

Shameless plug signagi tour.

Tom

And we also do a signagi winter wine tour, which is focused on.

Tom

It's pretty much the same sort of stuff we do on the summer one, except it's focused on the mountain views and the bit of the snow, which obviously we can't guarantee, but where there is often snow and fireplaces.

Tom

So if you want a glass of wine by the fireplace or even some mead.

Tom

Yeah, well, I wouldn't promise that.

Meg

Wasn't one of the family doing mead last year?

Tom

Well, no, they were doing mulled wine.

Meg

Oh, is that what I meant?

Tom

Mulled wine?

Tom

And we do like Christmas foods as well, so you actually get to have a short cooking class to learn about a couple of Christmas foods that are made in Georgia.

Tom

Even if you're here in March, we still do the Christmas food stuff through until sort of late March, when the snow is starting to melt.

Tom

But, yeah, so we've got that.

Tom

And the summer tour as well, without those bits, but still all the signagi, all the wine and Supra.

Tom

We do Supra at the end of that one.

Tom

So if you haven't read about Supra or listened about Supra, go back and listen to one of our episodes on that, because Supra is really fun.

Meg

You can, of course, rent a car and drive up there, which a lot of people do.

Meg

I don't recommend it.

Meg

I think Georgians would be crazy on the road and you're crazy if you try to drive with them, but that's an option.

Meg

You can also hire go trip, for example.

Meg

You can hire a driver to take you up there for the day.

Meg

Go trip is a really great option.

Meg

Or you can, if you're really on a budget, you can take a mashuka up there.

Meg

They are the blue micro buses.

Tom

Some of them are different colors because they're like private ones.

Tom

The ones in the Tbilisi city are all been replaced with blue micro buses, mini buses.

Tom

But the countryside ones could be anything.

Tom

It could be an old bus, it could be a new bus, could be anything.

Tom

But they are cramped, but they are very cheap.

Tom

They run pretty frequently, I think, from Audachala bus station in Tbilisi.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

Auditschala is the bus station, is the way, is where to get the machukas from, and that's the cheapen.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

I don't like cheerfulness.

Meg

No, it's not cheerful.

Tom

I've already been on a few and I've sort of decided not really to do them anymore, but I don't know.

Meg

I'm Bougie now.

Meg

Yeah, I'm in my forties, I'm Bougie.

Meg

I don't do that.

Tom

Take the train.

Tom

But there's no train.

Tom

There's no train to signagi.

Tom

Take the train somewhere else.

Meg

Yeah.

Meg

What we do is we take a tour.

Meg

Eat these tours.

Meg

Did we mention we.

Tom

I think we might have mentioned this.

Meg

Did we mention it?

Meg

I don't think we did.

Tom

Might have mentioned this a little bit.

Tom

I mean, at least it means there's no designated driver.

Tom

The march shuka doesn't stop at wineries.

Tom

Just saying.

Meg

Yeah, no, that's a valid point.

Meg

All right, so signagi.

Tom

It's a place.

Tom

So that's it for this episode, I guess.

Tom

It's a place that we like.

Meg

It's a wonderful place.

Tom

That was not my review.

Tom

It wasn't.

Tom

It's a place.

Tom

Two stars.

Tom

It's like.

Tom

It's a place that we like.

Tom

Five stars.

Meg

You absolutely should add it to your Georgia itinerary.

Tom

There's a reason everyone goes there.

Tom

Because it is great.

Meg

It's beautiful.

Tom

Yeah.

Tom

But, yeah, you can do it in a few hours.

Tom

You don't need to spend the whole day there.

Tom

But we normally stay overnight.

Tom

I think it's more pleasant to stay overnight.

Meg

Yep.

Meg

So I will add the links to different articles and things that we've mentioned in the show notes so you can find all of that in one nice little place.

Meg

And you don't have to do too much searching or.

Meg

Yeah, basically head to eatthistours.com.

Meg

and we've got articles on signagi.

Meg

We've got different information about some of our favorite wineries we like to visit in that region.

Meg

And also just different information about what you can do in Georgia in general.

Meg

Plan your whole trip through our website.

Meg

You don't have to book the tour.

Meg

We're just giving you information.

Tom

Yeah, but you could book the tour if you want to.

Tom

I'm just saying.

Meg

Do we have a tour company?

Tom

I think there's a tour.

Meg

Oh, there's a tour.

Tom

There might be tours available to signal.

Meg

You'll have to go to the website and find out and let me know.

Tom

But, I mean, be careful because we will get you a lot of wine and food.

Tom

You're gonna be full by the end.

Tom

Sorry about that.

Tom

That's just what we do.

Meg

All right, let's.

Meg

Let's stop rambling and wrap up this episode.

Meg

Thanks again for listening.

Meg

We will hopefully have some more episodes coming out in sometime, at some point.

Tom

At some juncture in the future.

Meg

But if you're listening, thank you.

Meg

We appreciate you and we hope that you'll come back and listen to some more.

Tom

Bye for now.

Meg

Thanks for listening to the Tibbolissi podcast.

Meg

Connect with us@tibbolissypodcast.com where you can find all relevant social media links join our email newsletter and discover more about travel, tours and expat services in Georgia.

Meg

This show is brought to you by foodfundtravel.com, comma, expathub dot ge and ethistours.com.