Hi!
Fern Yip:Hey, I'm gonna put my headphones on here and oh my
Fern Yip:gosh, look, that's fun late night studio sessions, right?
Adam Huggins:Yeah, you have a nice white background, actually.
Fern Yip:I do well, it's just a wall. And I just kind of
Fern Yip:adjusted the light so that it actually is like, Oh, this is
Fern Yip:actually not too bad for
Adam Huggins:Yeah you look like a passport photo.
Fern Yip:Perfect. Perfect. That's what I'm going for.
Adam Huggins:Hey, everyone, Adam here. So as most of you are
Adam Huggins:Official.
Adam Huggins:probably aware, Canada has been on fire this summer. And those
Adam Huggins:fires have become an ever present fact of life for so many
Adam Huggins:people, including some friends of the show. I recently had time
Adam Huggins:to catch up with my friend Fern, who heads up a land based
Adam Huggins:learning center in the interior of British Columbia, called
Adam Huggins:Earthkin. But for longtime listeners, you might remember
Adam Huggins:her as our guest co host from Episode 2.3, which we called
Adam Huggins:Communia Omnia. Our conversation felt so timely that I just
Adam Huggins:thought I'd share part of it with you. It foreshadows things
Adam Huggins:to come, both on our podcast, and in the world around us. So
Adam Huggins:here it is.
Adam Huggins:Can we just... the last time I saw you, you were headed up into
Adam Huggins:the interior? And you're gonna start a wilderness education
Adam Huggins:school, essentially. Right?
Fern Yip:So that is the last time I saw you. Yeah, I was just
Fern Yip:embarking on that. And I'm a few years in, you know, so there's
Fern Yip:been a lot of passion, effort and all that that's gone into it
Adam Huggins:Oh I bet. Has it been what you wanted it to be?
Fern Yip:Yes. When I feel into the potential of that place in
Fern Yip:building a really strong network of people connected to the land,
Fern Yip:it's it's becoming a lived reality, it is a lived reality.
Fern Yip:And so I still am in that vision, making it come to life.
Adam Huggins:Yeah. And where exactly is your school located?
Fern Yip:In ponderosa pine, Douglas fir country. So it is
Fern Yip:more of an interior ecosystem. Stl'atl'imx home territory in
Fern Yip:between Pemberton and Lillooet on Anderson Lake. I've been
Fern Yip:running adult courses there this past year, which has been
Fern Yip:delightful just being in that work and being in this very wild
Fern Yip:place and bringing people to that wild place to really
Fern Yip:connect with each other and with nature. And actually, just a
Fern Yip:couple weeks before the fire came through, I had brought this
Fern Yip:big dream vision to life of this 100 person ancestral skills
Fern Yip:gathering, which is called Earthkin Gathering. And it was a
Fern Yip:week long gathering that happened on the land and just
Fern Yip:seeing people camped out there and sharing and learning really
Fern Yip:old skills of land based living,
Adam Huggins:And that was just earlier this summer.
Fern Yip:Yeah, it was over the long weekend in July. So it
Fern Yip:would have been, I forget the dates like June 30, to July 5,
Adam Huggins:That feels like yesterday. I know, like I know
Adam Huggins:what I was doing that weekend.
Fern Yip:And the funny thing was, is during that week, the
Fern Yip:fire ban was rescinded. Because there had been enough rains that
Fern Yip:had fallen the week previous. So we actually got to enjoy outdoor
Fern Yip:fires. And then the very last day of the gathering, the next
Fern Yip:day, the fire ban was put on again, two days later, that's
Fern Yip:when that tiny little Casper fire started 10 kilometers from
Fern Yip:us. And we thought it wouldn't get to us, because my really
Fern Yip:rudimentary understanding of fire behavior was that fires
Fern Yip:just generally move upslope, and the direction of the wind. And
Fern Yip:because we were downslope of where the fire was initiated, I
Fern Yip:think we were under the false sense of safety that it just
Fern Yip:wasn't gonna get to us. But in these times where we're having
Fern Yip:climate trends in this particular region of the world
Fern Yip:have long periods of hot weather, it was just the perfect
Fern Yip:recipe for this fire to just get completely out of control. And
Fern Yip:the night when we really realized it was going to hit us,
Fern Yip:the winds were so powerful. And we were watching this fire. It
Fern Yip:was a kilometer away from us. We're looking up at the ridge
Fern Yip:above our place. We live on this large lake, 28 kilometers. And
Fern Yip:at this point the fires burning from the lake to the Alpine,
Fern Yip:like the entire mountain slope just roaring across. And so the
Fern Yip:wind picks up we're looking up at the ridge at nighttime. And
Fern Yip:I'm familiar with this ridge. I've walked this ridge many
Fern Yip:times before and I know there's old growth ponderosa pine and
Fern Yip:Douglas fir and I knew it was those trees that this fire was
Fern Yip:just candling up and just watching the spectacular,
Fern Yip:terrifying show of these old growth trees shooting up into
Fern Yip:like, literally 200 foot flames in the night sky and just this
Fern Yip:awful sound. And then it was a crown fire and it's just like
Fern Yip:racing across the ridge. And in that moment, I was just, I was
Fern Yip:terrified. I was like, we're gonna lose everything.
Adam Huggins:Were you guys evacuated at some point? Like,
Adam Huggins:was there an evacuation?
Fern Yip:There was, yeah. So we were on evacuation alert for a
Fern Yip:week and a half before we suddenly got put on evacuation
Fern Yip:order. And the order was issued at midnight.
Adam Huggins:But you decided to stay?
Fern Yip:We did. Yeah, so when the actuation order was issued,
Fern Yip:we did have the police come down to our place with the fire
Fern Yip:warden, giving us the official like, it's time for you to
Fern Yip:leave. And we were giving our response of, we're gonna stay
Fern Yip:and defend and protect our property the best we can. And
Fern Yip:actually, the night of when the fire was like, really descending
Fern Yip:towards us, we had the incident commander of the wildfire
Fern Yip:actually boat in and walk up the steep hill towards us and plead
Fern Yip:with us to leave. And he shared with us that he was from Lytton.
Fern Yip:We all know the story of Lytton. And yeah, he was just like,
Fern Yip:really just giving us a reality check. Like, hey, these fires
Fern Yip:can kill people. You know, if the fire gets dangerous, like,
Fern Yip:please, please just go forth with your evacuation route,
Fern Yip:which we're lucky we're like, we're just gonna run down to the
Fern Yip:lake, you know, and hop in boats. But I don't know, you
Fern Yip:know, I don't know what it's like to be in a crowd fire or to
Fern Yip:be asphyxiated by smoke. Like, these were all fears that were
Fern Yip:like, this is a potential situation we could face in
Fern Yip:choosing to stay.
Adam Huggins:What was the decision like? Was it a no
Adam Huggins:brainer? Or did you have to kind of struggle with it?
Fern Yip:Once I had made the pivot to be like, Okay, this is
Fern Yip:what we're going to do. It was easy for me to be like, This is
Fern Yip:what I'm committed to. And we were as organized as we could
Fern Yip:be. Yeah, it was an excellent team. So I think having that
Fern Yip:solidarity was really helpful. And we really care about our
Fern Yip:home. That's the other thing it was like this is, you know, this
Fern Yip:is the dream of my lifetime to be able to have relationship to
Fern Yip:have access to land in that way. So for me, everything was on the
Fern Yip:line.
Adam Huggins:So give us a little lay of the land, where is
Adam Huggins:your place in the landscape? And how is the fire moving towards
Adam Huggins:you when it starts to come at you?
Fern Yip:Oh, my gosh, this is fascinating. Well, that where
Fern Yip:we're located is like, it's the elevation of the lake or
Fern Yip:property stretches from the lake shore, and then it probably
Fern Yip:about 200 meters in elevation gain. It's 120 hectares, 40
Fern Yip:hectares of it has like infrastructure on it. And then
Fern Yip:80 hectares is actually wildlands, like in a land trust
Fern Yip:that we've created. So it's a pretty large forested land. And
Fern Yip:we decided when we were assessing, like, what can we
Fern Yip:actually protect, we kind of like whittle that down to
Fern Yip:basically a small area around our infrastructure was probably
Fern Yip:just like, maybe 15 hectares in in size. And the fire was coming
Fern Yip:down above us higher in elevation. Basically, the embers
Fern Yip:were getting sent downwards and racing towards us from the top.
Fern Yip:That's what it looked like. But one thing that I learned about
Fern Yip:fire is that it doesn't just burn upslope. And it doesn't
Fern Yip:just burn in the direction of the wind. It burns wherever
Fern Yip:there's fuel, and there's fuel in all directions. It just burns
Fern Yip:at different rates, where there's, you know, it'll back
Fern Yip:burn against the wind. It'll move downslope, but maybe a bit
Fern Yip:slower than it moves upslope and with less intensity. So at
Fern Yip:first, I thought the fire was approaching us from one front.
Fern Yip:But after some of us did some scouting work, we realized the
Fern Yip:fire was actually approaching us from all directions. And I
Fern Yip:learned this fire behavior thing where it was like the fire was
Fern Yip:moving in these tendrils. It would extend a tendril all the
Fern Yip:way down to the lake. And if it wouldn't hit the lake, then it
Fern Yip:would move upslope which is freaky because that's when it
Fern Yip:becomes a crown fire.
Adam Huggins:How long did it take to get to you from like the
Adam Huggins:ridgeline when you were talking about at night watching the
Adam Huggins:fire?
Fern Yip:Let's see it probably took actually like 12 hours,
Fern Yip:even though I felt like it was going to be there right then. It
Fern Yip:was a long wait. And so we had time to like, make our
Fern Yip:firebreaks better, like thin the forests you know, it's like the
Fern Yip:fires 200 meters away and I'm like using this electric
Fern Yip:chainsaw and just like thinning and knocking down ladder fuels.
Fern Yip:You know, we have been doing small prescribed burns, we've
Fern Yip:been thinning and doing small prescribed burns on the land for
Fern Yip:the last two years. And every single piece of land that we've
Fern Yip:worked, I was so grateful for when that wildfire came through.
Fern Yip:I mean, I think the lesson is like, in these times, if you are
Fern Yip:choosing to live in a forested area, you also need to do the
Fern Yip:work of tending the land, to mimic fire processes in the ways
Fern Yip:that you can, so that it's safe for human habitation but also
Fern Yip:bettering the ecological community too. So you know, at
Fern Yip:the point, when we were like, in that super intense 24 hours
Fern Yip:where we were really like, in battle mode against the fire, we
Fern Yip:were creating fire breaks on all three sides. Because one is like
Fern Yip:lakeside, but then all the rest of it, we were working really
Fern Yip:hard with pickaxes and chainsaws to make our firebreaks, which
Fern Yip:are essentially digging to mineral soil for about a meter
Fern Yip:wide length, and knocking down ladder fuels and thinning trees.
Fern Yip:And then the fire, you know, mostly came as a ground fire
Fern Yip:towards us. And you just kind of stand your line, you just wait
Fern Yip:until the fire gets to you and make sure it doesn't cross that
Fern Yip:line. And the only moment or the fire became a crown fire was
Fern Yip:when it actually did sneak down beneath us and sort of traveling
Fern Yip:upslope. And then it just like caught ladder fuels and then got
Fern Yip:into the crown. And then that moment, I don't know why. But it
Fern Yip:is the moment we got help from BC wildfire, and a helicopter
Fern Yip:came and dumped like 20 buckets of water on that spot.
Adam Huggins:That's miraculous.
Fern Yip:We were like thank you. And I'll just say like,
Fern Yip:what I will also share about what allowed us to succeed is
Fern Yip:that we really had a very supportive network, and a lot of
Fern Yip:people that have become connected to this land that
Fern Yip:really value both the place and the people. And it was just this
Fern Yip:incredible flood of support where people were arriving on
Fern Yip:boats, like by the boatload as hands on the ground boots on the
Fern Yip:ground and bringing us like hundreds of meters of hose and
Fern Yip:more pumps, and food and pick axes and anything that we
Fern Yip:needed, which is just real, really lucky, and also very
Fern Yip:privileged that we receive that kind of support in a very quick
Fern Yip:response time.
Adam Huggins:I mean, you're out there doing village building,
Adam Huggins:right. And it seems like you've created a strong community up
Fern Yip:Yeah, I definitely got to really see that. And I think
Fern Yip:there.
Fern Yip:crisis moments bring that out the network of people becomes
Fern Yip:visible, because people choose to show up because they really
Fern Yip:care. Yeah, it's just amazing to basically be you know, like, so
Fern Yip:exhausted, and have haven't received any sleep pretty much
Fern Yip:for 48 hours. And then there's just like this friend that just
Fern Yip:shows up out of nowhere with a chainsaw, and is like, Alright,
Fern Yip:I'm ready to sign you off and, and dig some trenches, you know,
Fern Yip:and -
Adam Huggins:Call those chainsaw angels around here.
Adam Huggins:They're everywhere
Fern Yip:Chainsaw angels!
Adam Huggins:Come out of the woodwork
Fern Yip:Definitely was grateful for those chainsaw
Fern Yip:angels.
Adam Huggins:So at what point did you realize that you had
Adam Huggins:succeeded?
Fern Yip:I think just there was just a knowing that like, we had
Fern Yip:stopped the fire, wherever it approached first and be like,
Fern Yip:Okay, we want that battlefront. Now, let's put our resources to
Fern Yip:the second one. Okay, that one's been stopped there. And then
Fern Yip:beyond that, there's the vigilance time of like having
Fern Yip:people on 24 hour watch for root fires that might creep in, or
Fern Yip:little embers that might be sent from who knows where. And then
Fern Yip:for days, and days and days after, actually. And I was
Fern Yip:really lucky, I have a friend who is both a wildfire
Fern Yip:ecologist, and has worked wildfires for like, three
Fern Yip:decades. And I got his advice. I said, Hey, this happened. What's
Fern Yip:your protocol for monitoring our perimeter that we've protected?
Fern Yip:Because I'm really worried about root fires, you know, they can
Fern Yip:burn seven feet underneath the ground, they can burn for years
Fern Yip:sometimes, what should we look for? And he just gave me this
Fern Yip:bomb proof protocol of what they do. And we monitored it very
Fern Yip:carefully for a week and a half after and then kind of with less
Fern Yip:and less vigilance as time went on. And as the possibility of
Fern Yip:root fires was like, eliminated, but we had to work for that,
Fern Yip:like we had to. I remember the first day after basically
Fern Yip:watering and digging out root fires for a full day on all of
Fern Yip:the perimeters. So it continued to be effort. Yeah,
Adam Huggins:It's just incredible. I guess you won
Adam Huggins:these battles to protect this little piece of land. And, but a
Adam Huggins:lot of the rest of the land is burned and certainly all the
Adam Huggins:surrounding areas, what does it feel like being there?
Fern Yip:Yeah, I've had a chance to walk through the land
Fern Yip:and just sit in the burn. And in my body, undeniably, there's
Fern Yip:just a heaviness. It's grief. The devastation is just so real,
Fern Yip:like the loss of life that happened. I mean, all of the
Fern Yip:shrub life, all of the plant life, the foliage is burnt to a
Fern Yip:crisp, and there's dead trees all around, who knows what small
Fern Yip:mammals didn't escape, insect life, birds, maybe there's like
Fern Yip:little fledgling birds and nests that didn't... like I just feel
Fern Yip:the loss. And usually, all the times that I've sat or walk
Fern Yip:through the burn, I just cry. Even though at an intellectual
Fern Yip:level, like, ecologically speaking, I like know that
Fern Yip:that's what the land needs to be renewed. And that all of these
Fern Yip:species are fire adapted, and will come back with more vigor.
Fern Yip:But like, at this time, you just feel the presence of death
Fern Yip:really heavily. And at first, you know, I was like, it's all
Fern Yip:burned, it's all dead. But when I walked through the forest, and
Fern Yip:I'm looking up at the canopy, some of the fire burned thrown
Fern Yip:away where it stand replacing, and it's like clear, every
Fern Yip:single trunk is crisped up, there's no foliage in the trees,
Fern Yip:they're dead. But other places, you know, it's like a trees half
Fern Yip:green, half black, and I'm like, Well, maybe that tree will
Fern Yip:survive, maybe it won't. And then other places, it's more
Fern Yip:like a just a ground fire. And the trees are actually the
Fern Yip:canopies all green. And it's just the shrubs and the plants
Fern Yip:that are completely gone. So it is a mosaic. It did seem to burn
Fern Yip:through in a patch-like way, although on a very large scale.
Fern Yip:It just brings so many questions of like, how this resets the
Fern Yip:successional process? And yeah, I'm just full of more questions
Fern Yip:really about it all.
Adam Huggins:So am I.
Fern Yip:Yeah. I'd love for you to take a walk through. I know
Fern Yip:you didn't see it before. But there's going to be so much
Fern Yip:learning about ecology over the years in the decades to come
Fern Yip:about how a forest renews itself. And then just questions
Fern Yip:about like, well, you know, the intensity of fires now are
Fern Yip:usually more so than they were historically. And what's the
Fern Yip:difference between the fires of today versus the fires of 150
Fern Yip:years ago?
Adam Huggins:Yeah, absolutely. I mean, I can't wait to get up
Adam Huggins:there and take a walk around and see what's up. I am just really
Adam Huggins:happy to hear that you guys are alright, that you're alright.
Adam Huggins:And that you were able to save something that you loved.
Fern Yip:Yeah, absolutely. I feel really lucky actually. And
Fern Yip:granted, you know, when people go and wander on the land, it's
Fern Yip:going to be a different kind of wander than it was when it was
Fern Yip:just fully super alive forest. But I think it's still going to
Fern Yip:be a place where... yeah, it's still it's still nature, you
Fern Yip:know? Yeah.
Adam Huggins:So that was my conversation with Fern, and I
Adam Huggins:really appreciate her being willing to share her experience
Adam Huggins:with us on Future Ecologies. I think it's important to note
Adam Huggins:here that this conversation isn't intended as an endorsement
Adam Huggins:of ignoring evacuation orders. Earthkin survived due to a
Adam Huggins:combination of factors, such as the preventative actions they
Adam Huggins:took on the land before the fire arrived, strong community
Adam Huggins:support and grit during the fire, a timely aerial
Adam Huggins:intervention from BC Wildfire that might have diverted
Adam Huggins:resources from another location, and also just sheer luck. When
Adam Huggins:people choose to deny evacuation orders, it can create serious
Adam Huggins:risks and challenges for response personnel and
Adam Huggins:potentially harm the overall fire response. So what I took
Adam Huggins:away from this, and what I hope that you take away is that
Adam Huggins:living in the forest means living with fire. And the
Adam Huggins:resilience that we generate in the landscape, and in each
Adam Huggins:other, when the fires aren't burning, is what might matter
Adam Huggins:most when they are.
Adam Huggins:In the coming weeks and months, we're going to be talking a lot
Adam Huggins:about fire again. I honestly can't believe it, but it's been
Adam Huggins:four years since we released the last installment in our ongoing
Adam Huggins:series "On Fire". And so much has happened since then that we
Adam Huggins:need to discuss. By the way, before I go, you should check
Adam Huggins:out our website for photos of Fern's fire breaks, and of the
Adam Huggins:Earthkin Learning Center at Anderson Lake after the fire. It
Adam Huggins:looks like a tiny island of green in a sea of black and red.
Adam Huggins:It's truly extraordinary. If you're in BC and you want to
Adam Huggins:learn some really useful Earth-based skills, check out
Adam Huggins:Earthkin's offerings. Fern's got several workshops coming up in
Adam Huggins:the first week of September in Vancouver, and then weekend
Adam Huggins:courses up at Anderson Lake all through the winter, starting on
Adam Huggins:September 8. You can go and see how the land is recovering for
Adam Huggins:yourself and meet some great people. We'll put some links on
Adam Huggins:our website, futureecologies.net, and you can
Adam Huggins:find Fern at Earthkin.ca
Adam Huggins:Alright, that's it for now. Take care out there.