Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein, and this is the podcast Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
Speaker:And I'm Mark Scarborough.
Speaker:And together, Bruce and I, well, have been married a long time, but also written 36
Speaker:cookbooks and are working on number 37.
Speaker:This is our podcast about food and cooking, the major passions of our life.
Speaker:If you've ever been around us personally, you know that it's not just cookbooks.
Speaker:We cook for people like mad people.
Speaker:Uh, we cook like dinner parties that are unbelievable and we
Speaker:have friends over all the time.
Speaker:Food is truly Part of who we are.
Speaker:And this is our podcast in which we get to express that passion.
Speaker:We've got a one minute cooking tip about cooking outdoors.
Speaker:We've got a interview segment in this episode of the podcast with a cookbook
Speaker:author, we'll tell you all about that coming up and we'll tell you what's
Speaker:making us happy in food this week.
Speaker:So let's get started.
Speaker:Our one minute cooking tip.
Speaker:More help for cooking outdoors.
Speaker:When you're bringing burgers, or chicken, or steaks, or ribs to your grill,
Speaker:line the cutting board with plastic.
Speaker:Uh, what?
Speaker:Plastic
Speaker:wrap.
Speaker:Fine, line it with
Speaker:plastic.
Speaker:I'm gonna go get a plastic outdoor pool and put it on my cutting board.
Speaker:Come on.
Speaker:Okay, plastic
Speaker:wrap.
Speaker:There you go.
Speaker:And then once the meat is on the grill, you could take that plastic
Speaker:wrap off and throw it out because you don't want to cross contaminate
Speaker:putting cooked meat back onto a cutting board that had raw meat on it.
Speaker:It's
Speaker:the way to save yourself having to have two cutting boards or rushing back into
Speaker:the kitchen and cleaning a cutting board.
Speaker:Which you can do if you're opposed to plastic.
Speaker:Handing it to your husband and having him clean it while
Speaker:you stand there at the grill.
Speaker:So anyway, yes, it's a great tip to coat the cutting board in plastic wrap and then
Speaker:take The stuff out to the grill on it.
Speaker:Okay, great.
Speaker:That's our cooking tip for this episode of the podcast.
Speaker:Let's get to that next segment.
Speaker:We haven't had an interview in a long time.
Speaker:And in this segment, Bruce is going to interview Renato Poliafito.
Speaker:He is the author of the brand new cookbook, Dolce, American
Speaker:baking with an Italian accent.
Speaker:Renato Poliafito is a baker, entrepreneur, cookbook author, creator
Speaker:of the original baked cafe in Red Hook, Brooklyn, and now owns and runs.
Speaker:Ciao, Gloria, a bakery and cafe also in Brooklyn.
Speaker:His new book is just out, Dolce American Baking with an Italian accent.
Speaker:Welcome, Renato.
Speaker:Well, thank you very much.
Speaker:I'm very
Speaker:excited to be here.
Speaker:You write in the intro of your new book about your experiences as an
Speaker:American kid of Italian immigrants, and you claim that immigration both
Speaker:preserves and evolves traditions.
Speaker:Can you talk about that?
Speaker:What means to you and how does that manifest in your baking?
Speaker:Well, I mean, I think that, you know, as as an American and also as like a second
Speaker:generation American, my parents, as you said, are they're actually from Sicily.
Speaker:Um, they, uh, You know, I think all cultures when they come to the
Speaker:US, um, merge and kind of become this, you know, a melting pot.
Speaker:So every culture, everything influences each other.
Speaker:So Italian American culture is a little different than Italian culture
Speaker:because it has an American infusion.
Speaker:And it happens to all, uh, cultures that immigrate to this country.
Speaker:And it shows through my baking.
Speaker:Um, mine in particular, simply because I had so many years at Baked,
Speaker:which was a classic American bakery.
Speaker:But I had all this kind of Italian background.
Speaker:So, uh, when Chow Gloria, the idea of Chow Gloria came about, I, I wanted to
Speaker:marry those two parts of me into one kind of cohesive, Uh, like point of view.
Speaker:And you did that in the new book, even the subtitle, American
Speaker:Baking with an Italian Twist.
Speaker:You start off the book with Cucidati Scones, and most folks in the U.
Speaker:S.
Speaker:know what scones are.
Speaker:Perhaps what not cucidati are.
Speaker:So what are they, and how did you meld the two together?
Speaker:Well, you know, it was funny because I, I love the components of a accucciadati.
Speaker:Accucciadati is basically what I call like a, a proto fig newton.
Speaker:Um, it's a classic Italian, um, uh, cookie usually, uh, eaten around
Speaker:the holidays and it's a fig filled, uh, kind of short crust cookie.
Speaker:And they go from the very simple where they're just like a simply dipped in
Speaker:a glaze with a few kind of nonpareils.
Speaker:to the elaborate, um, where they're kind of cut and incised and shaped into
Speaker:these really ornate organic shapes.
Speaker:Um, super, super gorgeous.
Speaker:The fig filling could vary from region to region, um, but usually
Speaker:it's a mixture of nuts and fig paste and a little bit of alcohol and
Speaker:candied fruit, sometimes chocolate.
Speaker:Um, so it, you know, you can really have fun with the fillings.
Speaker:Uh, but, uh, yeah.
Speaker:What I loved about that was the components of the citrus, the fig, the,
Speaker:the booze can be broken down and kind of put into a scone, which is almost,
Speaker:you know, similar in texture to kind of like a short crust, um, and then kind
Speaker:of, uh, basically deconstructing the components and putting them into a scone.
Speaker:And so as you take a bite, you'll get all those bits and it will evoke that
Speaker:kind of cucciadotti, uh, flavor profile, but in, in a, in a, in a different way.
Speaker:Renato, what's the difference between an American cinnamon
Speaker:roll and a Sicilian sticky bun?
Speaker:Well, sticky buns, they're kind of like a close cousin to the cinnamon roll.
Speaker:I wanted to, I guess, Sicilian ify Um, by adding those kind of, uh, very
Speaker:typical Sicilian flavor profiles.
Speaker:So I, I added a little bit of orange, I added some pistachio,
Speaker:and, uh, I even added a little bit of, um, sumac, which gives it this
Speaker:kind of bright, citrusy flavor.
Speaker:And sumac is, you know, kind of a Middle Eastern spice, um, that, you,
Speaker:found its way to kind of southern Italy as well in certain recipes.
Speaker:So I thought it was a nice kind of mix up.
Speaker:You claim in one of your recipe head notes that you could not stand the
Speaker:flavor of licorice when you were a kid.
Speaker:Me either.
Speaker:But it is a staple in Italian baking, isn't it?
Speaker:And especially in one dessert.
Speaker:Tell me about the Kentucci.
Speaker:Well, the Kentucci are just like a classic biscotti.
Speaker:Um, you know, in Italy, biscotti just is a general term for all kind of like cookie.
Speaker:items.
Speaker:Um, and this cantucci typical of, uh, northern Italy is an almond,
Speaker:uh, infused little biscotti.
Speaker:And you can have it with wine or whatever, but anyway, there's an
Speaker:anise, uh, component to it as well.
Speaker:As a kid, I just could not stand that flavor, but it is a very popular
Speaker:flavor in Italy used in Uh, sweet and savory foods, uh, you know, licorice
Speaker:sticks, amaros, things of that sort.
Speaker:So you, it's, it's pretty prevalent, but the cantucci is, is like
Speaker:a, it's like a great biscotti.
Speaker:And the older I got, the more I learned how to appreciate that flavor.
Speaker:Now, can I eat like black licorice?
Speaker:Absolutely not.
Speaker:But I could definitely have quite a, quite a few, uh, cantucci.
Speaker:Okay, you just talked about cookies and wine in the same sentence.
Speaker:Do you think that's a distinctively Italian thing?
Speaker:You know, yeah, I mean, I do see it a lot in Italy.
Speaker:I've seen it in other countries.
Speaker:I feel like I've seen it in Portugal and I've seen it in France as well.
Speaker:Um, probably in Spain, I would say it's like a Southern Mediterranean
Speaker:thing, but I think the Italians really, it's something they like to do.
Speaker:For sure.
Speaker:Hey, black and white cookies, my favorite ever since I was a
Speaker:kid, may not be all American.
Speaker:But yeah, they're all New York.
Speaker:Yeah.
Speaker:So what have you done in your book to infuse them with an Italian flavor?
Speaker:Well, I'm glad that you say it's one of your favorite cookies.
Speaker:It's one of mine as well.
Speaker:I absolutely love a black and white and I will die for a black and white.
Speaker:But um, the, the way we kind of just played with it here.
Speaker:Originally, we had these honey lemon ricotta cookies that we were selling, and
Speaker:they were kind of just simple looking, you know, dome shaped cake like cookies
Speaker:that, um, my, uh, original baker at Chow Gloria, Ginger developed, and they were
Speaker:delicious, but they weren't super popular.
Speaker:They weren't moving quickly.
Speaker:And I was looking at this cookie, and I was like, you know, it kind of looks like
Speaker:a black and white cookie, and it kind of tastes, it has that similar texture.
Speaker:And so I was like, why don't we just, frost the bottom of it with,
Speaker:you know, chocolate and vanilla.
Speaker:And I, I personally am more of a frosting than a glaze when it
Speaker:comes to the black and whites.
Speaker:Like, you know, if you've ever had glazers cookies before they, before they closed
Speaker:down, um, those were one of my favorites.
Speaker:So I was like, let's, let's do a nice little frosting on top of this
Speaker:and see how they move after that.
Speaker:And they, they just exploded as soon as we turned it into a black and white.
Speaker:cookie, but you know, also black and white cookies are, they're more cake, you know,
Speaker:it's, it's, it's definitely like, um, they have that like nice little citrus zing.
Speaker:So this particular cookie lent itself perfectly to becoming a black and white.
Speaker:So that was the ricotta mixed into that dough.
Speaker:Do you find that you use ricotta in a lot of Italian baking?
Speaker:Yes,
Speaker:maybe a little too much.
Speaker:But, um, uh, yeah, I, you know, one of the challenges in writing this
Speaker:book was that, you know, Italians love ricotta, in sweet and savory,
Speaker:um, and they will just lean in.
Speaker:And, uh, I, I actually had to, like, curb the number of recipes that had to, like,
Speaker:that had ricotta or that were deep fried.
Speaker:Um, And, uh, yeah, I love ricotta just as much as the next Italian, but I mean,
Speaker:in the chapter on pies and tarts, you do serve up a truly American
Speaker:classic, the pecan pie, but you're not going to leave it that
Speaker:way.
Speaker:What do you do to it?
Speaker:to make it an Italian aura.
Speaker:I usually, when I bake my pecan pies at home, I would do a
Speaker:chocolate bourbon pecan pie.
Speaker:I love that mix of booze, uh, and chocolate.
Speaker:I know there are some, um, you know, people who want to keep it
Speaker:classic and just have a pecan pie.
Speaker:But, um, I loved swapping out, uh, the, the bourbon with an amaro.
Speaker:And an amaro is, is basically a liqueur that's, uh, an herbaceous
Speaker:liqueur, almost like a digestive.
Speaker:Um, and, uh, I loved that interplay of like swapping out the
Speaker:bourbon and putting in the amaro.
Speaker:It, it gave it like a slightly more sophisticated, uh, flavor profile.
Speaker:And, uh, now it's like, now it's what I do.
Speaker:What would you say to people who tell you, well, I don't really like Amaro's
Speaker:because some people just have this strong reaction to the bitterness.
Speaker:Yeah.
Speaker:Well, I mean, some Amaro's lean themselves more towards the sweet.
Speaker:I mean, you really have to, there are so many different kinds and
Speaker:they'll use everything from, uh, Roots and herbs and citrus and
Speaker:whatnot to kind of create an amaro.
Speaker:Um, and sometimes they're, yeah, sometimes they are super bitter.
Speaker:Sometimes they're like almost syrupy sweet.
Speaker:You just have to find the Amaro.
Speaker:That's right for you.
Speaker:Not everything in your book is sweet and you have recipes for
Speaker:focaccias, for small pizzettis.
Speaker:And something you invented for Chow Gloria in Brooklyn, your caponata bombas.
Speaker:When I first saw the picture, of course, I assumed these looked like
Speaker:deep fried things, and then I read the recipe and saw I was mistaken.
Speaker:So, what is a bombas, and why do you think your customers love them so much?
Speaker:Well, the bombas were something that we created almost out of necessity.
Speaker:We had a lot of caponata left over after an event and we're like, Oh,
Speaker:well, what should we do with these?
Speaker:And one of my, my, my chef, uh, Carly Volterra, who is absolutely incredible.
Speaker:Um, you know, she's also a big caponata fan.
Speaker:We're like, well, you know, why don't we try to kind of, uh,
Speaker:turn these into little pockets.
Speaker:One thing, um, our customers love are savory pastry.
Speaker:So we kind of played around and, and kind of filled them in a
Speaker:pizza like dough or a pizza dough in, in, in the case of the book.
Speaker:And, um, baked them off.
Speaker:We brushed them with some garlic and some parsley and olive
Speaker:oil, and they were a major hit.
Speaker:And I can't speak enough about, um, caponata.
Speaker:I think it's just, it's such an amazing thing, and if you've ever, if you've
Speaker:never had it, it's like an agrodolce, which is like a little sweet and a little
Speaker:savory, um, filled with vegetables, and you can kind of customize it.
Speaker:Again, it's another one of those recipes that every family
Speaker:has their own, their version.
Speaker:They sound perfect, like served with drinks or at a cocktail party.
Speaker:That was the goal.
Speaker:Hey, what's a souple?
Speaker:And am I pronouncing that right?
Speaker:And tell me about your version of it in the book.
Speaker:Okay.
Speaker:So a souple is almost like, if you know what arancini are, um, they're like
Speaker:fried rice balls, uh, in their, Very common, arancini are very common in
Speaker:Sicily and southern Italy and they're kind of, they're either softball
Speaker:sized or they're conical shaped.
Speaker:The supli is Rome's answer to that.
Speaker:Um, again, it's like a fried rice ball.
Speaker:The main difference between an arancini and a rice ball is that, um, the
Speaker:shape mostly, because it looks like a giant, I guess like a pill, and, uh,
Speaker:the rice that's inside is already pre mixed with whatever the filling is,
Speaker:whereas in an arancini the filling is in the middle and the rice remains
Speaker:kind of, uh, saffrony or just plain.
Speaker:Um, but in the book, uh, there's been this kind of new movement in Italy where they
Speaker:are starting to use pasta for the supli.
Speaker:Um, so we did a little riff on that and did a taglioni, taglioni supli with,
Speaker:um, with cheese and mozzarella and dipped it in, uh, an amatriciana sauce,
Speaker:which is a very typical Roman sauce.
Speaker:that is with onions and guanciale and tomato sauce.
Speaker:So it's almost like a deconstructed plate of pasta that's deep fried.
Speaker:Amazing.
Speaker:Growing up in New York, I always had birthday cake from a local Italian bakery.
Speaker:It was light buttery layers filled with decadent cannoli cream
Speaker:covered in tons of whipped cream.
Speaker:Your cannoli cake is an entirely different animal at least from the photo It more
Speaker:resembles a cannoli that it's named after so tell me about your cannoli cake
Speaker:Our cannoli cake was like I wanted to take a slightly different approach.
Speaker:Um, you know at chow We don't have like a deep fryer.
Speaker:So it's like we can't make cannoli or any kind of fried thing in mass
Speaker:so I knew people kept on asking, it's like, oh, why don't you have cannoli?
Speaker:So I was like, why don't I kind of reinterpret this and create a cake?
Speaker:Um, so I wanted to keep it very rustic and simple and do a single
Speaker:layer cake and have the actual cake kind of embody that kind of cannoli,
Speaker:uh, taste, the actual shell taste.
Speaker:So it's a brown sugar buttermilk cake with a little bit of cinnamon and some candied
Speaker:orange and some chocolate chips in it.
Speaker:Very moist, super tender.
Speaker:Um, and then.
Speaker:have that ricotta filling on top, still fold in some more chocolate chips and some
Speaker:pistachios and slicing into that, you're basically getting all the components
Speaker:of a cannoli in a different format.
Speaker:Um, and people, uh, tend to go nuts over it.
Speaker:They really love it.
Speaker:I can't imagine a book called Dolce without gelati recipes and you have four.
Speaker:What makes gelato so different from ice cream?
Speaker:Um, well, you know, gelato is just basically is more milk than cream.
Speaker:It's not as whipped.
Speaker:as ice cream, you know, it's not as churned, so it's a denser consistency and
Speaker:a creamier texture, and then also it's kept at a slightly higher temperature,
Speaker:so when it's less cold, the flavors tend to kind of peak out a little more.
Speaker:I'm a huge gelato fan, I think gelato is I mean, I maybe get hate
Speaker:mail for this, but I think it's a little better than ice cream.
Speaker:Ice cream is great.
Speaker:But you know, if there's a gelato option, I'd probably go in that direction.
Speaker:I want to end with a TikTok challenge.
Speaker:I don't know.
Speaker:There's a French person TikTok that gets people in the streets and has
Speaker:them choose between different dishes.
Speaker:So we'll do your Italian pastry version.
Speaker:All right, let's do it.
Speaker:Gelato or semifreddo?
Speaker:Uh, gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or biscotti?
Speaker:Uh, gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or pizzele?
Speaker:Gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or zuppa inglese?
Speaker:I'm still going gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or tortoni?
Speaker:Uh, gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or tartufo?
Speaker:Oh no.
Speaker:Um, gelato.
Speaker:Gelato or Amisu?
Speaker:Oh, oh God.
Speaker:Um, gelato.
Speaker:Oh, gelato.
Speaker:Or Alini?
Speaker:Bombolini.
Speaker:Bombolini or cannoli?
Speaker:Alini.
Speaker:You are a Bombolini guy.
Speaker:. Renado.
Speaker:Poto.
Speaker:Thank you so much for sharing your new book with us, Dolce American
Speaker:Baking with an Italian accent.
Speaker:Great.
Speaker:Good luck with the book and we'll see you at Chow Glory in Brooklyn.
Speaker:I can't wait.
Speaker:Thank you.
Speaker:I remember when Renato and his partner opened a bakery in Red Hook, New
Speaker:York, a million years ago, it seems.
Speaker:It was called Baked.
Speaker:Baked.
Speaker:And we drove out, we were living in Manhattan, and we drove out to Red Hook.
Speaker:And this is still when Red Hook was a bombed out disaster area.
Speaker:Literally, empty bombed out lots.
Speaker:And this wonderful bakery.
Speaker:Really high end, beautiful bakery in the middle of, like, dystopia.
Speaker:So it was like something off Adult Swim on Comedy Network.
Speaker:And it was a really great place.
Speaker:We made several trips out there to it.
Speaker:And now it's like, It's nice to see him out on his own.
Speaker:I love that segment of asking him which he prefers of millions of Italian desserts.
Speaker:Uh, that's, uh, if you don't know, that's a riff off a TikTok
Speaker:thing that's currently going on.
Speaker:With French people.
Speaker:Of which do you prefer?
Speaker:Bouffe Brugnon?
Speaker:Coco vin?
Speaker:Coco vin?
Speaker:Steak tartare?
Speaker:Right.
Speaker:Exactly.
Speaker:Steak tartare with tartine?
Speaker:That doesn't even make any sense.
Speaker:But okay.
Speaker:Sure.
Speaker:Uh, yes.
Speaker:That's exactly what it's a riff off of.
Speaker:All right.
Speaker:That is the interview segment.
Speaker:Just to remind you, we've got a Facebook group, Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
Speaker:You can go there and find recipes from this podcast.
Speaker:You'll be able to find a link for this book if you'd like to pick it
Speaker:up, or you can purchase it there.
Speaker:And in addition to that, we have all kinds of things about
Speaker:cooking and food on the page.
Speaker:Check it out on Facebook under Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
Speaker:Up next, what's making us happy in food?
Speaker:This week,
Speaker:and I'm going to start, I never start, but I get to start.
Speaker:I'm going to start with curried lentils, and, uh, this is a dish that Bruce
Speaker:made a while ago, and he literally went back in the pantry and pulled out
Speaker:all the lentils we had and threw them into a pot and made a curry paste.
Speaker:And it was so delicious.
Speaker:Delicious.
Speaker:It was very good.
Speaker:What lentils were in that?
Speaker:I had chana dal, which are chickpea lentils.
Speaker:I had brown lentils, green lentils and red lentils.
Speaker:I wanted black lentils too, but I had none.
Speaker:Red
Speaker:lentils melt and almost make the sauce, the thickened sauce of it.
Speaker:And the brown lentils stay pretty whole.
Speaker:Yep.
Speaker:And we had mounds of that like polenta on our plate, which I topped with
Speaker:a Grilled chicken breasts, which I marinated in a combination of coconut
Speaker:milk and Thai jarred curry paste.
Speaker:It was so good.
Speaker:Such a great summer dinner.
Speaker:Even though the lentils were warm, it was still a great summer dinner.
Speaker:All right, your turn.
Speaker:What's making me happier?
Speaker:Cannolis.
Speaker:Cannolis.
Speaker:I interviewed Renato, and then I had this craving for cannolis, and
Speaker:Luckily, you know, we live in a part of New England that was very Italian
Speaker:at one point, and there's still a couple of Italian bakeries nearby.
Speaker:Let me
Speaker:say, if you don't know why it was Italian, well, I guess it's why
Speaker:it's Italian, but we live in a part of New England where there were
Speaker:a lot of furniture manufacturers.
Speaker:And back in the day, Italians were known as master carvers and furniture makers.
Speaker:And so these factories brought over tons of Italian immigrants.
Speaker:And with them, tons of Italian restaurants.
Speaker:And we are inundated with really Really good pizza parlors and a couple of
Speaker:good bakeries that are still left.
Speaker:And I just said, you know what?
Speaker:I got off the interview with them.
Speaker:I'm like, I'm going to drive and get me a cannoli.
Speaker:Cannoli.
Speaker:Wow.
Speaker:All right then.
Speaker:Um, I guess that goes with your beef short ribs from last time.
Speaker:It's all part of your pre cardiologist workup.
Speaker:So that's our podcast for this week.
Speaker:Thanks for being on the show.
Speaker:with us.
Speaker:Thanks for making us a part of your day.
Speaker:We hope that we've made your day better with this podcast and we look forward to
Speaker:seeing you more or at least being with you more on Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
Speaker:And every week we tell you what is making us happy in food.
Speaker:So go to our Facebook group Cooking with Bruce and Mark and there you will
Speaker:find a place to share with us what is making you happy in food this week.
Speaker:We read them all.
Speaker:We comment and if we really like it, we may even try it here on the
Speaker:podcast Cooking with Bruce and Mark.