Hey, everybody.
Speaker AWelcome back to lead the team.
Speaker AA question for you.
Speaker AWhat if the best meal of your life didn't just happen once, but kept happening over and over again at the same place?
Speaker AYou'd go back a lot, wouldn't you?
Speaker AWell, that's what we do in Charleston, because for me, that place is Fig and time and time again, it delivers meals that aren't just memorable, but they are purely transformative.
Speaker AAnd that's the magic of chef Mike Lada, a James Beard award winning chef, co owner of Fig and the ordinary and the powerful, powerful force behind Charleston, South Carolina's rise to a world class culinary destination.
Speaker AHe doesn't just build restaurants, he is building legacies and chefs that come through his kitchen on to win and win big time, including other James Beard awards of their own.
Speaker AAnd the culture he's created is that strong.
Speaker AAnd y'all, let me tell you, come to Charleston, South Carolina.
Speaker AYou got to get this on your docket.
Speaker AYou will probably find me there too.
Speaker AAnd today you're going to discover his best stories and leadership insights.
Speaker AMike.
Speaker AWelcome to lead the team, sir.
Speaker BOh, that's very kind of you.
Speaker BThank you.
Speaker BI'm gonna ask for the transcript for that intro and.
Speaker BAnd that'll be my bio.
Speaker AYeah.
Speaker APlease recruit me.
Speaker AAnytime you're speaking, bring me up there.
Speaker AI'll introduce you truly special meals, and I might weave in a few today and talk about some of those, but it is a really, you.
Speaker AYou've built something special.
Speaker AAnd we're excited to get some behind the scenes today.
Speaker BYeah, thanks for having me.
Speaker ASo one of the darkest times for all restaurants in the world was the pandemic.
Speaker AHow did you approach that as a leader?
Speaker AHow did and recover from it so incredibly?
Speaker BWell, ultimately, it's, you know, it's interesting because I don't know if I had, if we had any experience leading up to the pandemic, managing that kind of a event.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo if you know anything about Charles and I know you do, we opened in 2020-22-2003.
Speaker BAnd the City has been getting busier ever since, and food has been, you know, kind of at the forefront of the conversation almost the entire time that I've been here.
Speaker BSo every year with the city growing and its reputation of being a culinary destination, we've had some pretty smooth seas for a long time.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo year over year growth, you know, we are.
Speaker BOur company philosophy is like, well, what I always say is like, if it's easier to raise the bar than it is to maintain it or hold it up.
Speaker BSo we're always trying to get a little bit better.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BAnd it's that.
Speaker BThat philosophy of, you know, well, here we are.
Speaker BThere's two things happening at the same time.
Speaker BA lot of what we do is repetitive.
Speaker BSo that's the hamster wheel, and then.
Speaker BThen there's like, well, we've got to make sure that we hover a little bit above what we're doing and see how we can do it better all the time.
Speaker BAnd in turn, that kind of creates a mentality of like, pushing yourself, challenging yourself to see if you can make that brush stroke every day.
Speaker BThat kind of.
Speaker BThat kind of pushes the restaurant forward.
Speaker BSo in 2003, Fig was a neighborhood bistro.
Speaker BVery modest, if not, we need to be honest with you, and entree.
Speaker AHard to remember those days.
Speaker BWe wanted to be a restaurant where you could come in casually, respectfully, and order a great bottle of wine, have a server that had sneaky, great knowledge of the menu and how in our philosophy.
Speaker BAnd then the food was printed so simply on the menu with very few descriptors.
Speaker BAll of it was local.
Speaker BI mean, for the most part, it's, you know, certainly all the.
Speaker BEverything that was featured in any one dish or the center of any one dish was a local product.
Speaker BAnd the meals were like.
Speaker BThe entrees were like 14 to $19.
Speaker BAnd we wanted to be the kind of place that didn't exist in Charleston.
Speaker BSo that philosophy of getting a little bit better every day, you know, helped us get a big write up in the New York Times in 2005, which.
Speaker BFront page of the food section.
Speaker BWe were sold out for, I don't know, a long time after that.
Speaker BAnd then the James Beard nomination started coming, and then we had to live up to all of those expectations.
Speaker ASo the pressure must have been immense.
Speaker BYeah, because it all happened back then.
Speaker BObviously, we had the Internet, but we weren't as tapped into it.
Speaker BSo we were getting phone calls, and we were, you know.
Speaker BYou know, we still took reservations with a pad and paper.
Speaker BAnd the feedback that, you know, it just.
Speaker BIt was a different time.
Speaker BSo the expectation we.
Speaker BI guess what I'm saying is that there was.
Speaker BYou weren't getting the feedback immediately.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BOf whether you were doing a job or not at the table.
Speaker BSometimes you do, but not always.
Speaker BMost people don't give you feedback, to be honest with you.
Speaker BSo we just had to imagine that the expectations had gone through the roof, and we had to figure out a gear or a way to be able to handle that as young, young restaurateurs.
Speaker BAnd then Honor it.
Speaker BSo we took some lumps and thank God that the city back then did not have a lot of options.
Speaker BAnd thank God that the people that read the New York Times were coming from all over the world, frankly, to try the restaurant.
Speaker BSo we had, we, we had, we were able to make mistakes, but the, the goal had been the entire time, can we, what are we doing?
Speaker BHow do we do it?
Speaker BOur vision is not only to be to, to.
Speaker BTo.
Speaker BTo showcase local products in ways.
Speaker BYou said transformative, I think a little bit a while ago.
Speaker BIt's when you have something you've had before and something that you're familiar with, done a little bit differently with a high level of craftsmanship, it redefines what you think of it.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BEspecially if the product is amazing.
Speaker BSo, you know, that's the goal.
Speaker BAnd how do we get better every day and how do we get the servers to be in step with that philosophy, which I think is the X factor of fig that the service and the food match up so beautifully.
Speaker BAnd you know, they know that menu.
Speaker AIn and out when you go.
Speaker AAnd it is so refreshing to have a server that's totally, totally bought into the menu and can speak about it from all these angles.
Speaker AAnd going back to the pandemic, we reserved a table outdoors.
Speaker AThat was our first big post Covid meal, my wife and I, and we were nervous and I'm not sure if we should have been so nervous about going out, but just like, okay, we're.
Speaker AWe've been to fig a bunch, but we don't know what this is going to be like.
Speaker AAnd that server, I wish I could remember her name, made us feel so at home.
Speaker AWe sat, we sat outdoors.
Speaker AEven though people, some people were sitting indoors.
Speaker AThey're like, no, no, no, no, we're sitting outdoors.
Speaker AAnd it was just a super special experience.
Speaker AAnd I think you.
Speaker AOne of the.
Speaker AWhat do you do to cult.
Speaker ABecause you're obviously.
Speaker AAnd I've listened to a lot of your.
Speaker AYou really put a lot into your.
Speaker AYou.
Speaker ABut how do you educate and get the buy in of servers?
Speaker AThat can be a high, can be high turnover.
Speaker AThey're under a lot of pressure to convey the menu to people who may not get it really, you know, h.
Speaker AHow.
Speaker AHow are you approaching that, that development and conveying your vision to them?
Speaker BThat's a great question.
Speaker BAnd just to put a period because I know we're coming back to it on the end of that sentence before, it's like we didn't really have any hardships for 17 years.
Speaker BSo anyway, to the servers right from the get go.
Speaker BMy business partner and I, you know, co own the restaurant.
Speaker BHe was front of the house, I was back at the house.
Speaker BAnd he was really great about telling people that came in, you know, guests or employees, that this was a culinary driven restaurant.
Speaker BAnd then it was up to the servers to understand the menu, to speak to the menu, to be educated, to be not robots, to be themselves, to highlight things that they're interested in, highlight things that are popular, but kind of like treat each table as if it was, you know, like read the table and guide them accordingly.
Speaker BAnd then so we develop systems of which is very common for restaurants that we have a lineup every day, but we take it a little bit further than that, right?
Speaker BWe have our menu tests and you know, at the lineup every day, what happens is we talk about the menu, we talk about changes, because it changes all the time.
Speaker BBut then we look at dishes that we haven't touched on that might have been on the menu for a little while and look around the room and like, how many people in here have heard me talk about this one ingredient, the inspiration for the dish.
Speaker BSo I would always approach lineup, like, here's my chance to.
Speaker BTo give them the sales language, the information they need, and the inspiration that they.
Speaker BThat they need to really to.
Speaker BTo.
Speaker BTo have the buy in.
Speaker BRight?
Speaker BAnd so I always put a lot of.
Speaker BA lot of.
Speaker BI would, I would think about the lineup beforehand when I walked out.
Speaker BI would try my best to energize and.
Speaker BAnd like, literally, you can see the servers becoming passionate as you carefully choose the words for them to hang on.
Speaker BSo when we're finished talking and they taste the food, the changes that we're making, they hit the floor and they're like, let me tell you about this new thing that we're doing.
Speaker BOr let me tell you about soft shell crabs, right?
Speaker BAnd here's the story behind soft shell grabs.
Speaker BAnd I think in so many restaurants prior to that, which is, this is not a novel idea that we had, but we had that.
Speaker BWe.
Speaker BWe had two owner operators that split the duties of the restaurant.
Speaker BFront of the house, back of the house.
Speaker BWe shared the business decisions, of course, and manage the facility and all that kind of stuff together.
Speaker BBut his goal, and my goal was, hey, it's pretty commonplace for there to be animosity between the front and back.
Speaker BNot here.
Speaker BAs cooks, we have to respect that the server is going to be our voice, and how they approach the table is going to set the stage to receive what we've done.
Speaker BIf they don't do a good job at that, all the work that we've done in the kitchen that we find important will go unnoticed or, you know, totally missed.
Speaker BAnd so there's a lot of work daily to support that.
Speaker BBut the one thing that we do that we think is the most important thing is that everybody that works in the restaurant is invited to dine in the restaurant.
Speaker BYou know, some sometime after they start, and then some with some frequency which has not really been formalized.
Speaker BBut imagine a line cook who's 23 years old who has never been able to afford a fine dining restaurant, and here you are trying to speak to this person in the kitchen who's cooking your fish that doesn't understand what it means when you've jockeyed for a reservation, driven or flown to get that reservation, then you sit down.
Speaker BI can only eat three things, right?
Speaker BThis is.
Speaker BMost people aren't going to order the entire menu, although some do.
Speaker BI'm going to order.
Speaker BI'm going to.
Speaker BI'm going to painstakingly look at the menu and try to make my decision.
Speaker BI'm going to get input from the server.
Speaker BI'm going to get input from the.
Speaker BPer.
Speaker BThe clerk at the.
Speaker BThe retail store that recommended that I go there.
Speaker BWhat should I get?
Speaker BAnd then they get to the restaurant and they have to make a selection.
Speaker BAnd I don't think there's a ton of anxiety about this, but it's a reality that they don't want to pick the wrong thing.
Speaker BIf they don't.
Speaker BIf they don't know the restaurant they want to pick, what's the best thing?
Speaker BWhat's the best thing for me?
Speaker AThat's me.
Speaker AThat's me.
Speaker AYou're describing me like I want to know.
Speaker BAnd then you sure don't want to be on the short end of the stick.
Speaker BWhen the person across from you has a dish that you're like, I wish I ordered that, and they won't share it.
Speaker BThat's a big part of the experience, right?
Speaker BSo how can you tell a line cook who cooks two different pieces of fish 75 times a night that, oh, by the way, that dish is somebody's decision, Somebody has worked hard to get here, let alone be at a celebration of any kind.
Speaker BYou have to stop and think about that every time you put it, to be, you know, into the window where we put the food before it gets, you know, taken out of the kitchen to put to the table.
Speaker BHave to find a way to connect to that.
Speaker BSo after years of talking about this, we finally said, well, you know what?
Speaker BThey just need to come and have dinner.
Speaker BSo when they.
Speaker BSo at this point happens with the servers and the cooks, they're able to sit down.
Speaker BThe most important thing is that they're not scheduled to work that day.
Speaker BThey walk in the door like a guest would.
Speaker BIf you walk from the kitchen, put a jacket on or a nice sweater or whatever, and then walk directly to a table, you're still in work mode.
Speaker BYou still.
Speaker BYou can see behind the curtain.
Speaker BYou can see the mistakes.
Speaker BBut for some reason, when you walk in the front door after having not been there, there's a lot of.
Speaker BI don't know what's happening going on.
Speaker BAnd you can feel like a regular guest.
Speaker BIt happens to me as well.
Speaker BLike, I don't want to, like, nitpick everything around me.
Speaker BI want to.
Speaker BI'm there to have dinner with somebody, and I want to enjoy that person.
Speaker BI want to be edible in a good company.
Speaker BSo I'm not focused on looking for problems.
Speaker BI'm like, how does it feel to be here?
Speaker BAm I being taken care of?
Speaker BHow's the hospitality?
Speaker BLike, do I.
Speaker BDo I feel good?
Speaker BAnd then looking at the menu, hearing the present, the servers and the.
Speaker BAnd the cooks need to feel that experience because they're.
Speaker BThey're.
Speaker BThey're providing it for everybody.
Speaker BAnd I think that that really.
Speaker BThat came out of the pandemic, and that was a really good move for us.
Speaker BAnd what we didn't realize is now that we make.
Speaker BWhen they do that, people come in the next day or Saturdays is the day we do it, and they describe the meal that they had, the highs and the lows and the feedback that we've gotten from it has been amazing because they're also sitting next to people and they're listening to conversations, and they're hearing what people are saying about how they got there.
Speaker BThis is their fifth anniversary, or this is my first date.
Speaker BAnd they're talking.
Speaker BThey're sitting in relative close proximity to these folks, and they're.
Speaker BThey're hearing them, you know, talk about the texture of the potato puree or the crispness of the.
Speaker BThe arugula on the salad.
Speaker BAnd it really is, aha.
Speaker BMoment for everybody.
Speaker BAnd.
Speaker BAnd then somehow, some way, it has strengthened the team.
Speaker BRight, Because I think, oh, I get what we're doing and where we're going.
Speaker BAll the things that I've been hearing make total sense to me now.
Speaker BAnd it's.
Speaker BIt's interesting that.
Speaker BThat most restaurants traditionally.
Speaker BNow I can't speak for, obviously, what's happening now.
Speaker BBut as I was coming up, you weren't allowed in the restaurant.
Speaker BYou weren't even allowed to eat in the restaurant.
Speaker BAnd what an interesting thing, right?
Speaker BTo be so disconnected from such an intimate experience.
Speaker AI love that.
Speaker AAnd I think about the power of reading a positive, like, diner review, but that brings it on such a more personal level.
Speaker AAnd if you want your cooks to really take pride, then, like, yeah, I was dining.
Speaker AI saw that, like, it's an experience that it's just so much more powerful.
Speaker AIt looks like your secret shopper hearing people beside you talk about the food that you might be cooking the next night.
Speaker BCorrect.
Speaker AOr night before.
Speaker AWow.
Speaker BAnd so then the conversations sometimes go from which are totally normal.
Speaker BYou know, it's like, it's a busy night and I've had to do X amount of yokis and to, you know, hey, is this gnocchi the right texture?
Speaker BI think I'm right.
Speaker BBut I want you to double check, because when it's just right, that's when the magic happens.
Speaker BAnd there's a little secret handshake to how we make it.
Speaker BAnd then the person sauteing the fish would say, like, I like the color on this, but do you think that it could be a little less or a little more?
Speaker BBecause I saw one at the table the other day, and it really struck me as being, you know, so like, the details and the attention to detail and people striving to hit the right bullseye or smaller bullseye even has organically come out of this.
Speaker BAnd the result is that when you walk in the door of the restaurants, both big and the ordinary, the cooks have their heads down.
Speaker BThere's no, like, hey, let's remember, you know, how important what we do is.
Speaker BWe don't have to talk about that very often.
Speaker BThey're given two tasks, right?
Speaker BIt's to, like, create a memory and to get better every day.
Speaker BAnd those two things have really helped us, like, weed out a lot of the drama that comes with complacency or lack of vision or direction.
Speaker AWe say create a memory.
Speaker AHow does that show up?
Speaker BWell, so that's my whole.
Speaker BI threw some soul searching and.
Speaker AWriting.
Speaker BA proposal for my cookbook.
Speaker BI've had a lot of.
Speaker BI've had a lot of time to think about what I want to say and how I want and what makes me me, right?
Speaker BAnd I've realized that my.
Speaker BI was my DNA.
Speaker BAnd I think DNA, when I say that, I mean kind of like your.
Speaker BYour personality.
Speaker BMost people in kitchens may or may not know It.
Speaker BBut they were almost predetermined to be there because there's.
Speaker BThere's such.
Speaker BIt's such a unique environment that appeals to certain people.
Speaker BAnd when you find it, if you're in the kitchen, you don't have that.
Speaker BWe all know that you're not going to last a certain.
Speaker BIt could be a few years, it could be.
Speaker BIt could be 10 years.
Speaker BBut we just know that what you do is know that you're not going to take this to the next level.
Speaker BYou're going to like, it's fun and interesting for a time in your life.
Speaker BBut in other people, you can say though, this is what they're going to do because, because of all the things that happen.
Speaker BBut for me, I fit the personality.
Speaker BBut all through my life, I would remember food that I had, be it my grandmother or mostly my family.
Speaker BAt first because I was pretty blue collar.
Speaker BNot a lot of dining, but it could have been a sub from, from the one place I love to get subs.
Speaker BAnd why did I love it so much was the crackle of the crust.
Speaker BThe, the extra mayonnaise on the roast beef.
Speaker BThe.
Speaker BI would ask them to flash it in the pizza oven and the lettuce and the tomato would catch a little bit of heat, but not too much.
Speaker BAnd they put it together and there was like the right amount of mayonnaise and meat and the cheese was slightly melted and the lettuce was a little bit warm.
Speaker BAnd I like the way that made it taste.
Speaker BAnd like, so.
Speaker AYou're making me so hungry.
Speaker BTalking about I would make a sandwich.
Speaker BI was like, I want to make the sandwich that I love.
Speaker BOf course you can't do that.
Speaker BYou can never make for yourself the things that gave you the memories.
Speaker BI've also realized why.
Speaker BSo you're trying to capture a moment and you're.
Speaker BI'm trying to capture a moment in my life.
Speaker AOkay.
Speaker BBecause it meant so much to me.
Speaker BMy grandmother's omelette lives on in our house to this very day.
Speaker BAnd, and I imposed it on my, my 13 year old Henry.
Speaker BHe probably ate an omelet five days a week for seven years.
Speaker AWhat is the omelet?
Speaker BBecause he wanted it.
Speaker BBecause he wanted it.
Speaker BOkay, well, we make them a couple different ways, but the bottom line is that I wanted my son to have that memory.
Speaker BI wanted him to grow up thinking that his dad's omelets made it like I wanna.
Speaker BAnd like that he would remember that the way that I remembered my grandmother's omelets, which as I grew up became more technical and more precise and more unattainable.
Speaker BBut when I was actually writing the intro to my cookbook, which is not near.
Speaker BAnywhere near publishing.
Speaker BPublishing, or maybe closer than I think, but I wanted to hone in on that idea of that omelette and that.
Speaker BThat.
Speaker BThat memory.
Speaker BI'm striving to give you that memory.
Speaker BWith every plate that I give you, I want you to remember the meal that you had.
Speaker BHow do I do that?
Speaker BWell, I find the best ingredients.
Speaker BI create a good system, good team, obviously, but I'm relentlessly pursuing what are the ingredients conceptually of that omelette that made it memorable.
Speaker BAnd I realized that I'm chasing a memory, and I can't really recreate that omelette.
Speaker BAnd that omelette may not have been that great to begin with, for all I know, because I was so young.
Speaker BBut what it is is that there was a lot of love and a lot of care in my grand.
Speaker BLike, her kitchen was like my big.
Speaker BEverything that she did was delicious every single time to me.
Speaker BI was a kid.
Speaker BI don't know.
Speaker BShe was definitely a great cook, but that's what I took from it.
Speaker BSo my idea was what.
Speaker BMy realization was that, like, well, that's what I want fig to be.
Speaker BI want you to walk in the door, and I want to feel like you're guaranteed to have something that's going to be delicious that you'll remember.
Speaker BAnd so my number one priority from day one was like, okay, who.
Speaker BWho am I as a chef?
Speaker BAnd the first thing that I thought to myself was, I can't ever serve a bad plate of food.
Speaker BHow do I do that?
Speaker BWell, I create systems which are way too complicated to talk about.
Speaker AWell, what's your.
Speaker AYou don't have to go in great detail, but people like me who haven't worked in the industry, like, what is the backbone system that, you know, as a leader, like, that system has to be perfected every time to or.
Speaker AOr be run smoothly to get the end result that you're going for.
Speaker BSo let's put it this way.
Speaker BThe system that I've developed is why anybody that's ever been with me has any had any success, if they buy into it, it's that we receive product from about 30 different purveyors.
Speaker BThat's a lot of time on the telephone.
Speaker BUnfortunately, the younger generation is texting, which I strongly.
Speaker BYou have to have a phone conversation when you're talking about fish and you're talking to the.
Speaker BThe sales rep.
Speaker BYou know, when did the Fish come in, who caught it, exactly what doc did it come in on, as opposed to seeing a text.
Speaker BI've got great black bass.
Speaker BYou'll love it.
Speaker BI want to know more about it because I know the landings for the fish, I know the boats, I know how the boats handle the fish post harvest, so.
Speaker BAnd that sales rep may or may not be having a good day, may be motivated to sell me that fish for some other reason.
Speaker BWe have trust that we built together, but I've got phone conversation.
Speaker BWell, we have to manage products.
Speaker AHow was that trust built?
Speaker ASo one of the things I think about is you as a chef and I, I understand you started this system in Georgia, right?
Speaker AWhen you were working, you were in Atlanta, you would go out and that's how you got in the Atlantic Journal Constitution food section a whole bunch.
Speaker ARight, because people weren't.
Speaker AYou were, you were early on that trend, I guess, or whatever.
Speaker AIt happens to be the, that, that farm to table.
Speaker AAnd now you're like sea to table, farm to table.
Speaker ABut I'll think about these purveyors, like the fishermen, people on farms, they speak a different language than you in the restaurant business.
Speaker AThey have different lives, they had different problems.
Speaker AHow are you developing these, these vital relationships for your business so quickly and effectively when they, they're kind of from a different, different part of the world?
Speaker BIt's an incredible question and we could do a four part series on that.
Speaker BThe farmer sees things differently than a chef.
Speaker BA chef is very particular about a good chef, about everything that walks in the back door.
Speaker BAnd traditionally you're buying commodity product, traditionally.
Speaker BSo you can say to your wholesaler, I would like, number one, zucchini.
Speaker BThose are all the same size.
Speaker BThere, there's a, there's a, there's a, there's a, a measurement for the diameter and the length and the color and the lack of bruising.
Speaker BAnd there's some consistency.
Speaker BAnd there's some wholesalers that specialize in specialty produce.
Speaker BSo baby carrots, baby beets, they have specs.
Speaker BBut when you're dealing with a farmer, they have more trouble and more difficult things going on in their world than you do as a chef.
Speaker BAnd they're at, they're, they're at the mercy of mother nature.
Speaker BSo what we say is this, we share values and we wouldn't go down the road if we didn't.
Speaker BSo I share your values and I make that very clear with the grower.
Speaker BThey want to grow sustainably or organically or they want to provide to restaurants because for whatever reason and they want to, you know, to sum it up, they want to have the best product.
Speaker BAnd there's farmers out there that feel the same way about food, about growing food, that I feel about receiving, cooking and selling food.
Speaker BSo if we have the same values, then there's going to, there's going to be.
Speaker BAnd they're pretty consistent problems, right?
Speaker BIt's like, well, they were out on the field, their tractor broke or it rained too much and the rain kicked up a bunch of sand on the lettuce and the lettuce became very sandy.
Speaker BOr a new grower harvest something in the middle of the day.
Speaker BBut, you know, and that's not good because the summer heat wilted it.
Speaker BAnd kind of by the time they get to the restaurant, it's not very good.
Speaker BSo you have to make a commitment to these growers.
Speaker ASo many variables.
Speaker BWe're in a relationship.
Speaker BBut you have to know that I'm, I want you to succeed.
Speaker BI want you to succeed.
Speaker BSo when you make a mistake, I would say now you've just harvested 10 pounds of arugula that probably took you four hours and you picked it at noon and it's come wilted.
Speaker BThat was for a salad, but I can't use it for a salad anymore.
Speaker BMost chefs back then would say, take it away.
Speaker BWell, what is that farmer going to think?
Speaker BRight?
Speaker BThe farmer is going to say, I don't want to deal with chefs.
Speaker BWhereas what I would say was, I'm going to buy it, I'm going to, I'm a chef, I'm going to figure out, I'm going to make a ravioli and I'm going to grind it all up for that.
Speaker BOr I'm going to serve it to my staff because they haven't tasted hand picked, you know, field grown arugula in, you know, late March.
Speaker BIt's the best time, whatever.
Speaker BSo I'll do something with it.
Speaker BI'll eat it if I have to, literally.
Speaker ABut I just want financially and I'll just literally eat it.
Speaker BBut I just want you to know when you go back out to the field, I'm going to tell you what we're looking for.
Speaker BAnd then I'm going to like, if I can communicate, like, you know how it works with communication, you can't expect just because you have a desire that they can, they could accommodate it.
Speaker BJust because you articulated the first time, there's, there's some growing pains in there or some like trust building, what the question was.
Speaker BSo every time they would come in, I would take the position of like, I'm here to help you grow your business because I believe in what you can do.
Speaker BAnd even though I was not so, you know, we weren't like, we were making a ton of money back then.
Speaker BHowever, I.
Speaker BI was like, what I really want to do is I want the growers to succeed because there aren't that many of them that are that.
Speaker BThat we share that many values.
Speaker BWe have a lot.
Speaker BYes.
Speaker BBut, like, it's not like they're everywhere.
Speaker AHow are you discovering?
Speaker ABecause you.
Speaker AThere are a lot of options.
Speaker AWhat do you do to discover if someone has the same values?
Speaker ACan you, like, show up at their farm and say, based on what I'm saying, you're my people.
Speaker AOr is this like a word of mouth thing?
Speaker BOr.
Speaker BThey will.
Speaker BFor the longest time, they, like, we had the reputation and still do, I hope, where new growers would come to us.
Speaker AOkay.
Speaker BAnd hear about you times.
Speaker BOftentimes, then we'd have a conversation when they brought their first samples or whatever.
Speaker BWell, how do you do what you do?
Speaker BWhy do you do what you do?
Speaker BAnd in those conversations, there's a bunch of buzzwords or just a general attitude that you can kind of, like, realize that, okay, this person's super passionate.
Speaker BAnd we've got several examples of people.
Speaker AYeah.
Speaker AWhat's one that's just blowing, like, would blow our mind in terms of.
Speaker AOr surprise us?
Speaker ATerms of.
Speaker BThere's one of my favorite.
Speaker BOne of my favorites.
Speaker BI've got two favorites, but one of them is a woman named Rita Bachman.
Speaker BShe was a young girl, maybe in her 20s, and wanted to be a grower.
Speaker BAnd she might be the arugula story.
Speaker BAnd she is to this day an amazing woman and an amazing businesswoman.
Speaker BNow she's.
Speaker BThis is 20 years now, probably she would, you know, she's like, I want to grow you the best product, you know, and I want.
Speaker BI want to make a go of it as a farmer.
Speaker BAnd she would come in with the arugula, and I would say, okay, next time, let's do a little bit better.
Speaker BAnd her spunk and zest for doing well and passion for what she did, which we look for in young people, is sometimes, you know, like, we would argue a little bit and I would say, rita, I'm on your side, you know, and like.
Speaker BAnd we eventually, almost immediately had a really, I think, wonderful relationship.
Speaker BBut as we went along together, because, of course, we're learning too all the time, we developed, you know, I could tell that she.
Speaker BHer desire to do well and do it the Right way was obvious to me.
Speaker BSo I'm like, if you, if you'll be patient, I'll be patient.
Speaker BLet's see if we can help each other.
Speaker BAnd my end goal really was to get more farmers acclimated to selling chefs.
Speaker BAnd then I would turn those farmers onto chefs that I know weren't the kind of chefs that would kick back the carrots if they all weren't the exact same size.
Speaker BLike, do you want, do you want 25 pounds of flavorful carrots where you've got to kind of grade them yourself, or do you want some from California that were picked 45 days ago that are all the same size?
Speaker BAnd I would then take the growers like Rita and send them to different restaurants.
Speaker BBack then, like Frank Lee, there was a kid named Craig Deal who's no longer in the, in the community, Kevin Johnson, who took my job at Anson, and at one point.
Speaker BAnd I would, I would send the growers, that's okay, now go try this person.
Speaker BThey're.
Speaker BThey're going to be kind of similar to us in, in the way that they talk to you and handle you.
Speaker BSo then we felt like, okay, let's get them established because we like what they do.
Speaker BLet's.
Speaker BLet's learn to do the business together, which was the hard part.
Speaker BLike, don't drop the food off at 9:00 at night.
Speaker BKnow that we have to inspect it when it walks in and give you feedback.
Speaker BRight, right, right away.
Speaker BAnd how can we, how can we create a relationship that's beneficial for both of us?
Speaker BAnd at the end of the day, my real goal and this to this day, is like, I want the people that sell to us grow for us, sketch for us to feel like they have somebody that's supporting them in a way that's just beyond the dollar and that really want them to succeed and with the hope that they feel the same way about us.
Speaker BSo when I call and I say, hey, I've got a, you know, I'm looking for this, they're like, oh, I've got a field.
Speaker BYou know, we're gonna stay on the arugula train if you want to.
Speaker BI've got a field of arugula that just came up.
Speaker BSo.
Speaker BAnd like we talked about, the texture that you're looking for is just right.
Speaker BAnd the heat from, you know, the heat on the arugula is just right.
Speaker BI know what you want and I want.
Speaker BAnd I want to pick it for you.
Speaker BAnd then I would say, well, if you pick it early, are you going to lose money.
Speaker BAnd they would say, yeah, if I let it grow for a week, I could probably make twice as much on it by the pound.
Speaker BAnd I'd say, well, why don't I give you an extra buck or two a pound for it?
Speaker BAnd so then it would just be this, you know, how do we, how do we, how do we have the beneficial relate.
Speaker BHow are we going to be partners?
Speaker BBe partners, right.
Speaker BAnd there's another fisherman named Mark Marhevka who was the only, and still is the only person that.
Speaker BWell, I don't know that for sure, is one of the only people that goes out, catches the fish and then can sell it directly to the chefs.
Speaker BAnd everybody in Charleston's been on the receiving side of this amazing fish for a very long time.
Speaker BMark and I worked for years on because he was the same way.
Speaker BHow do I be the best fisherman?
Speaker BHow do I bring you the best fish?
Speaker BAnd we would analyze his post harvest handling.
Speaker BSame thing as the arugula in the hot field.
Speaker BHow are you catching, what happens to the fish after you catch it?
Speaker BYou just throw it in the, throw it in the hole with a bunch of ice.
Speaker BWhich turned into him hand packing every fish in the cavity with ice and lining them up like soldiers so the meat would retain the integrity and like.
Speaker BSo over the course of a couple of years, Mark and I worked very closely together to where I would buy, you know, he, in being his small and independent, I would buy a lot of his product, spread the word.
Speaker BAnd then together we're like, well, how do we have the best opportunity?
Speaker BYou love fish.
Speaker BHe's got incredible philosophies about hunting for seafood being the only wild fish that we eat, which is true and amazing, right?
Speaker BAnd how he wants to have the premier product.
Speaker BSo then we would be on the receiving side of that product through our relationship.
Speaker BAnd then we would then in turn bring product to the market that had never been eaten before.
Speaker BOr teaching people that actually amberjack is not garbage.
Speaker BAnd there's species that we used.
Speaker BWe've, we've introduced species over the last 20 years together.
Speaker BBecause if the fish came off a Mark's boat, it was handled in such a way that we, myself and then my team on this, on the floor had the confidence that you were about to try something that was truly remarkable.
Speaker BAnd that's kind of how we've always dealt with our purveyors.
Speaker BSo then Mark and I would always say to each other that we're, we're in business together and I'll do whatever I Can to keep you on the water.
Speaker BAnd he'll say, I'll do whatever I can to keep people having the same kind of seafood experience at your restaurant.
Speaker BWhich I would argue whether, I mean, let's say we did our jobs properly in the kitchen on any given night.
Speaker BHow could you replicate that experience easily anywhere else?
Speaker BAnywhere else?
Speaker BLet's just say the east coast, you know, that kind of relationship, that kind of attention to detail from both sides and then.
Speaker BBut I think the desire to see each person succeed, I think really is what helped, gave us an edge, honestly.
Speaker ASo that is like an MBA course in creating win win relationships where, you know, you're not negotiating with your suppliers to get an edge and to beat them up on price and to just, you know, have a win lose relationship.
Speaker AYou're setting, you're having a, you have a mindset of abundance and hey, there's enough in this world for all of us to win and to become strong.
Speaker AAnd also, I'm pointing out the listeners, you, you aren't just trying to keep your suppliers to yourself.
Speaker AYou've actually made introductions to other restaurants to help them grow too.
Speaker AAnd so when you go to eat it figure the ordinary, you're eating the win win relationship right there.
Speaker AAnd that probably shows up in the food.
Speaker BYeah, I could even, I could even.
Speaker BI'm not going to, but like, I could get teary eyed thinking about if you really kind of step back and sit on that idea for a little while.
Speaker BAnd the length of time that that's been happening in the city with ourselves and other chefs and other purveyors.
Speaker BAnd you think about.
Speaker BAnd there's a third leg to the stool when it comes to why our town is so successful that way.
Speaker BBut you think about that, the size of our city, the resources that we have, the relationships that we've built to produce that kind of a product.
Speaker BIt's like, I'm so proud of that.
Speaker BI'm so proud of my fellow chefs.
Speaker BThe guests that trust us, which is the third leg of the stool.
Speaker BThey're demanding.
Speaker BNot demanding, they are.
Speaker BTheir desire to have an experience that may be a little uncomfortable.
Speaker BTo eat a piece of amberjack or rudderfish, or to be honest with you, in 1998, that word, that fish was trigger fish.
Speaker BNo, was eating triggerfish.
Speaker BWhen I moved to town, that was my first, you know, discovery.
Speaker BAnd how that has affected so many people.
Speaker ARight.
Speaker BOur community at large.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BAnd then, you know, and then out from there.
Speaker AWell, I want to go back to the pandemic in a minute, but I.
Speaker AThere's a quote that I read or that I heard you say you've said that food can erase prejudices.
Speaker AWhere has that shown up for you?
Speaker BSo I say a lot of stuff and, and I feel without remembering back.
Speaker ATo what it was.
Speaker BNo, no.
Speaker BWell, when you say the word prejudice, I think you think differently.
Speaker AWell, well, I can think of it a lot of different ways.
Speaker BThe prejudice here is.
Speaker BSo when you're in a creative field, you come up at a certain time when certain things are popular and certain things are certain ways.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BAnd, and I'll give you an example.
Speaker BThe flourless chocolate cake.
Speaker BHave you ever had the molten lava chocolate cake before?
Speaker AYes, recently.
Speaker BSo this cake was invented or at least discovered.
Speaker BHowever, there's a little bit of controversy about where maybe, let's say the late 80s or something like that, or maybe even the 90s, but, oh, 30 years ago or whatever.
Speaker BAnd this cake is very easy to make and it's just a half baked chocolate cake is what it is.
Speaker BAnd if you cook it right, the chocolate will come out oozing and warm.
Speaker BIf you've ever had one, you'll know that it's delicious.
Speaker BBut when Applebee's starts to put it on the menu, then you're like, well, there's no way I can sell that anymore.
Speaker BI can't sell the same thing Applebee's is selling.
Speaker BAnd there's a.
Speaker BThere's so many of those things that you might.
Speaker BWell, any creative medium is going to produce things that are happening now that become stayed or trite or whatever for a certain amount of time with food.
Speaker BI could give you another great example would be when I first moved to town, only the touristy restaurants were serving shrimp and grits.
Speaker BThere was a number of things that I wouldn't cook at Fig because they were, because what people understood them as were, you know, a pile of grits that were pulled out of a steam table covered with a thick cream, which, you know, can be fine shrimp that were imported.
Speaker BAnd then, then whatever else the chef thought might go on top of that, with no context to why that dish exists to begin with, why it's important to our community.
Speaker BAnd it's like it become a caricature of itself.
Speaker BSo then creatively, as you go to approach your menu, and there's a whole part of my career where we just rediscovered heirloom grains and reintroduced cultural and, you know, culinary ingredient like ingredients that were important to Charleston.
Speaker BWhen you go to put a shrimp and grits on the menu, you're like, well, you know, I've got it.
Speaker BAnd the answer is like, no, no, no.
Speaker BCook with your heart.
Speaker BCook.
Speaker BDo what you think is right.
Speaker BDon't let the.
Speaker BDon't let the reputation or the.
Speaker BYou know, don't be prejudiced about what this dish represents, right?
Speaker BTake the ingredients and put.
Speaker BIf you believe in it, do it and erase your preconception or your prejudice, your own prejudices about the dish.
Speaker BDon't let that get in your way, because then you start closing doors.
Speaker BAnd when you close those doors, you become less creative, less free.
Speaker BAnd I think you kind of muffle your own voice a little bit and suppress it.
Speaker BAnd all of those things, I think, are very negative when it comes to creating.
Speaker BI think you want to open as many doors and open as many windows as possible and believe in your ability to do it better and different or do it in a way that you're proud of.
Speaker BAnd I think that the creative process has a lot of things that challenge your confidence.
Speaker BYou know, anybody that writes feels that way.
Speaker BIt seems to me, all the time when you create something permanent.
Speaker BI'm sure painters that way with food, it has to be replicated.
Speaker BThe difference about food is that it is a creative endeavor, at least for a lot of us.
Speaker BBut everybody's an expert on what they like to put in their mouth.
Speaker BSo.
Speaker BAnd everybody's got a grandmother who made an omelette or something like that.
Speaker BSo we have to compete with whether or not it's sophisticated or not.
Speaker BIt's the reality of what people want to eat so creatively, or they're.
Speaker BOr them thinking shrimp and grits should be a certain way, you know, or, you know, that it should be like the touristy versions that I came into the city eating.
Speaker BSo I think you just have to ignore all of that.
Speaker BSo that's where that comes from.
Speaker AUm, do you feel like you have a.
Speaker ADo you.
Speaker ADo you create and cook with, like, a chip on your shoulder sometimes of, like, hey, people do not see this the way I see the possibility.
Speaker AAnd you're, like, tackling that fish.
Speaker AYou're tackling shrimp and grits, and you're gonna drive down with the restaurant.
Speaker AYou're like, does that drive you?
Speaker BI don't know, but I think that triple grips is going to pop on our menu in the ordinary probably a couple weeks after this conversation, because I got excited about it.
Speaker ADoes that drive you?
Speaker BSo as you're Any.
Speaker BAnybody that has to express themselves goes through a metamorphosis from their, let's say, early years until they're.
Speaker BUntil they've you know, they realize there's no real secret handshake or mystery to it.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BThat there's no magic that you need to capture.
Speaker BIt's just like hard work, repetition, honing your skill and.
Speaker BAnd getting better at what you.
Speaker BAnd realizing who you are and how you want to express yourself.
Speaker BWhen you don't have that vision, I think you have a chip on your shoulder.
Speaker BI think that you don't understand yourself so much and.
Speaker BBut you see yourself a little bit like, I'm a man of integrity.
Speaker BI'm a chef with integrity.
Speaker BI.
Speaker BI find the best products.
Speaker BBut if you can't quite get to the finish line, the way that your brain in the way that you envision is a very frustrating situation.
Speaker BAnd there's.
Speaker BI don't know if there's a way to really talk through that with anybody, because they have to kind of go through that, I think be in any.
Speaker BAny, like, music or.
Speaker BOr, you know, art of any kind.
Speaker BSo I think that you go with being frustrated that your mind might be ahead of your hands.
Speaker BAnd then, you know, the chip.
Speaker BAnd I think the chip on the show.
Speaker BIf I had a chip on my shoulder, it would be that nowadays.
Speaker BAnd I don't.
Speaker BIf I ever had one.
Speaker BIt probably really came from, like, we have created a menu with lots of options, with lots of alternatives, be it dietary, be it making sure that even at the ordinary, that if you didn't eat seafood, that you would be.
Speaker BFind some craveable things to want to come back to.
Speaker BWe've thought about it all from a business standpoint.
Speaker BWe don't want to isolate or exclude.
Speaker BWe want to have a vision, and we want to differentiate.
Speaker BSo we have to have a point of view.
Speaker BIt's when you.
Speaker BYou put all of that work into intellectually and then physically into.
Speaker BWe're about to open for dinner.
Speaker BHere we go.
Speaker BAnd the first order comes in, and it's like every dish, they want some other different way as opposed to.
Speaker AI don't reimagine it.
Speaker BThe grouper has pork on it.
Speaker BThere's a pork broth with a roasted grouper.
Speaker BBut over next to it is a piece of snapper that was sauteed in brown butter with lemon and capers.
Speaker BThat is 100% pescatarian.
Speaker AYes.
Speaker BAnd an excellent dish.
Speaker BExample.
Speaker AMake my meat dish.
Speaker BThey want the grouper without the pork.
Speaker BAnd you're like, why would you want that?
Speaker AIt's not going to work the same way.
Speaker BAnd then like, when I'm finished with.
Speaker BYeah, when I'm finished with it.
Speaker BYou're going to have a piece of plain fish on the plate that's going to be cooked with love, I promise.
Speaker AWell, with love.
Speaker BBut it's your.
Speaker BLike, what gets you up in the morning is like, how do I.
Speaker BHow do I play this chess match?
Speaker BHow do I position myself strategically to be competitive and then inspired?
Speaker BHow do I inspire myself?
Speaker BHow do I look forward to getting to work in the morning?
Speaker BHow do I build on what I'm building on?
Speaker ALet's talk about inspiration.
Speaker ASo that's, that's.
Speaker BThat sometimes.
Speaker AYeah.
Speaker BYou know, there was a point in my career where that was really.
Speaker BI don't.
Speaker BIt doesn't.
Speaker BDoesn't bother me anymore.
Speaker ASo inspiration, since we're, since, since you mentioned that, two points of inspiration that I can.
Speaker AThat I'm curious, like, what inspires you?
Speaker ABecause I, I remember you sharing with me about Julia Child in that role.
Speaker AAnd I understand you took a trip to France at one point in your career, and you had one meal in France that sparked the idea for a restaurant where.
Speaker AAnd maybe, maybe touch on those.
Speaker ABut also, where are you going today to get inspired?
Speaker AWhere people know you.
Speaker AThey.
Speaker AI mean, you're sort of like a celebrity chef.
Speaker ALike, where, where are you going to get inspired now in a city where you're kind of already well known in that way?
Speaker BTwo very different places.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BWhere we.
Speaker BWhere do we start and where are we now?
Speaker BI think, you know, so originally.
Speaker BSo by the time I was ready to do fig, I was 20.
Speaker BWell, when I, when I decided to do Fig, I was night.
Speaker BIt was 2001, so I was 29 years old and I went to France.
Speaker BI already had a perspective.
Speaker BI'd already been in Atlanta cooking.
Speaker BAnd you mentioned about, you know, I got some recognition.
Speaker BThat recognition brought me to Charleston.
Speaker BI got recruited to come to Charleston to continue that work at, at Anson.
Speaker BAnd when I realized that, I was inhibited to realizing what I was doing because the restaurant had an ownership dynamic that didn't allow for me to really exercise my vision, which was totally fine.
Speaker BSo I was like, I'm going to go do my own thing.
Speaker BAnd so.
Speaker BAnd my vision was, it's like, I live on the coast.
Speaker BI have beautiful produce, I have beautiful fish.
Speaker BBut most restaurants in town are, are, are seem to be like, so beholden to their, their signature dishes.
Speaker BSo if it was a flounder dish or a grouper dish or an asparagus dish, and they wanted to have that year round, that asparagus would be coming from, you know, from Nicaragua, Chile, you Know, potentially, you know, somewhere, you know, that covers the whole north, the Americas, you know, somewhere from the Americas the grouper might come from.
Speaker BThe grouper might come from Thailand sometimes or it might come from South America where we don't know what the fishing regulations are, if the practices are good.
Speaker BAnd I was like, I hated that, right?
Speaker BAnd I was like, so in order for me to express myself, my vision, I, I need to be running my own restaurant.
Speaker BSo I was, I had a clear vision about at least that simple food, the freshest possible because that's how I built my, my, that's how I built my, my self guided career.
Speaker BWhile in, in Nice, I saw a restaurant called La Miranda and there's a big article about it in Savor magazine when I was, you know, 1995 or so.
Speaker BAnd I kept the article because what they, the way they wrote about it was very impressive to me.
Speaker BAnd so I decided to go to work in Nice.
Speaker BCold call, sight unseen, just took a flight there, knocked on some doors, knocked on that one.
Speaker BThat didn't happen, but I really wanted to eat there.
Speaker BAnd then what.
Speaker BThis is like, this is like what I was excited about before and this is what I'm still excited about now.
Speaker BThat restaurant was a small 30 seat restaurant, no reservation, no telephone, no credit cards back in 2001.
Speaker BIt was a shotgun place with a beaded door.
Speaker BAnd inside behind the stove was a classically trained chef who was on a trajectory to be the next celebrity chef in France.
Speaker BHe at probably in his mid-30s, early-30s, said I don't want to cook like this anymore.
Speaker BI don't want to cook precious food.
Speaker BI want to cook the food of my people, which is from Nice.
Speaker BI want to cook nicoise food.
Speaker BI want to cook traditional Nice SW food, kind of like the shrimp and grits I was talking about.
Speaker BAnd I want to do it in a way that is like you've never had it before.
Speaker BAnd how is that?
Speaker BWell, with integrity, with good ingredients, the ingredients from my area.
Speaker BBut I'm not just going to buy the olives for my commodity guy.
Speaker BI'm going to have the olives for my neighbor and I'm going to have the, the lamb from so and so and you know, and so on and so forth.
Speaker BSo when you walk in the door, the menu is very simple and the food you were familiar with for the most part, especially if you're French.
Speaker BAnd it was the traditional nicoise food which was being sold everywhere in touristy restaurants.
Speaker BHis version was prepared with technic for technique and the quality of ingredients were so elevated that I was like, oh, I get it.
Speaker BThis is amazing.
Speaker BAnd it was like, oh, there's a really magic thing that happens when you give somebody something that they're familiar with, but you do it in a way that they've never had it before.
Speaker BNot by reinventing it, by breaking it down and looking at every step and ingredient along the way and making sure that every part of it feeds this.
Speaker BLike, this is the best version of this you could possibly have.
Speaker BYou know, obviously, that's subjective.
Speaker BAnd I was like, there's something that gets me excited about that moment.
Speaker BWhat's that?
Speaker ASo it's not like the light bulb went off while you were having the meal.
Speaker BYeah, yeah.
Speaker BYes, it certainly did.
Speaker BAnd then on top of that, it created a sense of place, which I was very passionate about already.
Speaker BYou know, like, when I talk about soft shell crabs from Charleston, I was like, oh, by the way, do you know that those crabs come from a shedder in Shem Creek?
Speaker BAnd as soon as that they peel, you know, the shell comes off, they bring them directly to the restaurant.
Speaker BWe clean them and cook them that night.
Speaker BNot much of a better expression than that.
Speaker BAnd I think that if you fill your restaurant with those ingredients and the city has those ingredients available, you're creating a sense of place.
Speaker BAnd I think that's a very powerful thing to somebody who doesn't live in Charleston.
Speaker BWow.
Speaker BWell, to those that live there, but those that don't come in and they eat at the best restaurants in town, they go, well, there's something happening here.
Speaker BIt's like, oh, yeah, by the way, we're all using the same people, the same growers, and all that stuff is, like, incredibly special.
Speaker BAnd whether you know it or not, consciously, you're going to leave town saying, that was a unique expression, you know, and I think that's very powerful.
Speaker AWow.
Speaker BSo we all of those things kind of fed into the inspiration.
Speaker BAnd nowadays, honestly, like, I put so much, so many years and thought into it, we're still trying to, like, find ways to refine our cooking, but the formula for how we look for new dishes, which could be whimsical, could be traditional, and we have our inspiration, you know, generally, is, you know, is it the best product?
Speaker BAre we, you know, let's show some restraint.
Speaker BLet's make sure technique is involved in finesse.
Speaker BBut nowadays, I want to see cooks progress under my mentorship.
Speaker BI want to see them go from uncertain or they can't quite put it together themselves.
Speaker BLike, I'm more interested, I Want the food that comes out of the kitchen to feel and be the same.
Speaker BBut ultimately I want to do it with somebody.
Speaker BI want to.
Speaker BI want to help other people do it.
Speaker AWow.
Speaker BWell, I'm inspired to share that I've climbed that mountain.
Speaker BI still, I'm up there grinding on it.
Speaker BBut it's.
Speaker BTo me, many of the lessons that I'm teaching now could seem somewhat remedial.
Speaker BLike what.
Speaker BWhat's remedial to me or what I might assume you should know.
Speaker BI'm like, no, let's teach those things and make sure that we, we all, you know, so we spent a lot of time talking about how did Fig get to where it is or the ordinary and, you know, what's important about our culinary philosophy.
Speaker BAnd, you know, let's make sure that you're looking at it the way that I'm looking at it so you understand the value of it.
Speaker BAnd I believe that if you do it, if you cook with integrity, heart.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BIf you cook with love, that definitely translates to the plate, no matter how big of a mistake you've made.
Speaker BWell, you know what I mean.
Speaker BI think if you cook with love and intention, that comes through, even if you've made some errors.
Speaker BAnd I think that if you, if you put technique and ingredients and sensibility first, that's your foundation.
Speaker BFrom there, you can go anywhere you want to go.
Speaker AOh, I love that.
Speaker AAnd building on that.
Speaker ASo a friend of mine who I've coached a lot of rec league sports with, Trey Dutton, who, Who used to work on your.
Speaker BOh, yeah.
Speaker AHe sent me a picture of, of a sign, I think at the ordinary.
Speaker ACleanliness and ordealous or orderliness are outward indicators of those larger inward feelings of pride and self esteem.
Speaker AAnd don't try to be original.
Speaker ABe simple.
Speaker ABe good technically.
Speaker AAnd if there is something in you, it will come out what those are.
Speaker AThat is bold.
Speaker AThat sounds like a leadership vision for all leadership visions.
Speaker AWhere did that, when did that crystallize for you and your career?
Speaker AAnd when you share that with somebody for the first time, what's the response you get?
Speaker BI think both of those things need time to sit.
Speaker BYou know, the, the first quote about cleanliness and orderliness, I think that's pretty cut and dry.
Speaker BIt's, it's, it's a, a very wordy way for me to communicate that you're part of this team.
Speaker BLet your presentation and the way that you approach your responsibilities in your, you know, what we call a station, your area, let that show us that you are part of progress and that you're paying attention to the culture around you that we're all striving for.
Speaker BAnd so take a minute before you show up to work and get yourself in order.
Speaker BAnd while you're there, if you're naturally organized, then great.
Speaker BIf you're not, identify that and work towards it, and that will perpetuate that behavior.
Speaker BI think as you have a team of people that buy into that, when somebody walks in the door, they're going to be pulled in that direction.
Speaker BAnd the other one really doesn't apply to everybody right away because they're not always in a position to be creative.
Speaker BAnd I think that is me.
Speaker BI always try to.
Speaker BTo talk about the creative process to people and how individual it is.
Speaker BThe process itself is individual because it's like, how do you take the idea and then how does it become realized?
Speaker BI think that's very individual, and I try to talk about that.
Speaker BThe process is how important the process is, and the outcome is, you know, sometimes not as important or you have to learn to love the process.
Speaker BAnd that is a personal thing.
Speaker BAnd, and like I said earlier about the prejudices, it's like, get out of your own way.
Speaker BDon't think about the roadblocks.
Speaker BDon't think about your insecurities.
Speaker BDon't work on your technique.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BAnd I, and I've.
Speaker BAnd I always say, like, if you put a perfect plate of food and if you put a beautiful plate of food in front of somebody and it's not original at all, I don't think they're going to look at that plate of food and wish they were somewhere else.
Speaker BI think they're going to think about, I'm hungry and this is delicious.
Speaker BI find a lot of value in that care that's been put in this plate.
Speaker BAnd I think from a restaurant tour perspective, if you're able to string four dishes together, that, that, that do that, then there's no way you're going to go out of business.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BOr at least there's no way that you're going to turn people off from your restaurant because of the food experience.
Speaker BAnd so as you understand the craft, you.
Speaker BThen you'll be amazed at how inspiration, you know, and songwriters say this all the time.
Speaker BMy greatest songs were written in 15 seconds, so.
Speaker BAnd you never know when that, that lightning is going to strike.
Speaker BIf you strive for it, you have to, you have to understand creatively that there's going to be peaks and valleys.
Speaker BSeason.
Speaker BSeasons.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BNot quite literally of, of creativity.
Speaker BAnd when it's the winter metaphorically you have to rely on the things that you've done and your technique or things that have been done.
Speaker BYou can, you know, make a potato leak soup that's ethereal.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BThat's like an old recipe that's been around for a million years.
Speaker BIf you do it right, it's going to provide the experience that I just mentioned.
Speaker BIt's like, it's.
Speaker BThe texture is amazing, the color is amazing.
Speaker BIt's hot and, you know, seasoned beautifully.
Speaker BIt's like they'll be satisfied with that selection.
Speaker BAnd so the creativity, when you become prolific, you know, you never know when it's going to come.
Speaker BAnd it comes, you know, it's kind of like a golf game.
Speaker BYou struggle all the time to make it happen, and then all of a sudden you're just like, wow, where's all this coming from?
Speaker AYeah, if there.
Speaker AI love that last line.
Speaker AIf there's something in you, it will come out, but it's like, put the work in, stay focused.
Speaker AAnd there's a.
Speaker AAnd you don't say that in this expression, but when I think of.
Speaker AYou're like, encouraging them to put the time in and trust yourself, trust that it will come.
Speaker AAnd there can be so much encouragement in that.
Speaker ANow we don't have a lot of time left, but I want to bring you back to the pandemic and.
Speaker AAnd maybe finish that sort of show talking, maybe talk to them about the vision that you had and how maybe it shifted a bit during that and where.
Speaker AWhere it's led you today and your two successful businesses.
Speaker BWell, a lot of things happened post pandemic.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker ARight.
Speaker BWe all.
Speaker BWe were all uneasy on March 17, like, oh, my God, are we gonna lose our restaurants?
Speaker BLike, what is happening, really?
Speaker BI mean, looking back on it, I would strip down.
Speaker BMy wife was pregnant.
Speaker BI would strip down because this is what we were told we needed to do, and take my clothes off in the front door and walk in naked.
Speaker BAnd immediately in the shower, the FedEx guy would throw a box at me from halfway across the lawn.
Speaker BWe didn't know what was going on, but it didn't take long before we realized that there was going to be some support and stimulus in the PPP and some incentives to retain employees, etc.
Speaker BSo at one point in time, we were like, okay, I think it's going to be okay.
Speaker BAnd we seem to live in an area unlike LA or New York, where we can get back to business pretty quickly.
Speaker BAnd we did about eight weeks later.
Speaker BAnd then you're in this honeymoon period, which maybe There's a better word for it of like, we're back, we're in it.
Speaker BHow do we figure it out?
Speaker BYou said you dined, you were anxious about dining.
Speaker BWell, nobody in our team got Covid for, for, I don't know, eight months.
Speaker BSo we were waiting for the chew to drop.
Speaker BEvery day I'm washing dishes every night, getting splashed up with people's food scraps.
Speaker BAnd I couldn't help it.
Speaker BYou know, I wipe my, wipe my forehead with my hand after I cleaned a plate and go, oh, there it is, I've got Covid.
Speaker BAnd it didn't happen for years, but it wasn't until 2022 when that pent up demand was in full swing.
Speaker BAnd Charleston couldn't have been busier.
Speaker BWeddings seven days a week because of the backlogging of, of, you know, what happened during COVID We couldn't have been busier.
Speaker BNo restrictions were in place at that time.
Speaker BAnd the labor market completely dried up and we had to.
Speaker BIt was very difficult to maintain a good attitude every day when people would just not show up for work that had been employees for some time or they're a brand new hire, applicants that express an interest in working for us would make an appointment to work with us for the day to see if we were a good fit, which is called a stage.
Speaker BWe do that, it's a working interview.
Speaker BThey would not show up for that.
Speaker BAnd then we would find with just regular, our loyal, good employees, there's going to be an attrition.
Speaker BFor how long is a 22 year old going to stay in Charleston as a line cook?
Speaker BLike, maybe they want to move to California, maybe they want to move to New Orleans or somebody's mother got sick, they had to go back home.
Speaker BSo the natural things of that, you know, the attrition that happens normally with staffing, you know, mind you, we have 100 people for the two restaurants, you know, 10 are just kind of flowing out, you know, often.
Speaker BBut we couldn't replace anybody because there was no resumes.
Speaker BAnd this is like when people, there's so many things that you get older.
Speaker BLike when I tell my son he can do anything he wants to do.
Speaker BI heard that same story.
Speaker BI didn't believe a word of it, right?
Speaker BDidn't believe a word of it when I was a kid because I had too many things that I wasn't good at.
Speaker BBut one day we walked in and we had done so many things to generate resumes.
Speaker BEvery Monday morning we would look at all the outlets online, LinkedIn, you know, Craigslist.
Speaker BThere's a company called Culinary Agents that we used, and there was like this.
Speaker BThese clearinghouse websites where if you put the ad out there, they would populate all of the places where ads went.
Speaker BThose were flooded with ads.
Speaker BSo every Monday, we rewrite our ads, rename our positions up the hourly wage, which was like, every two weeks, we're like, I guess we're not paying enough.
Speaker BThere's somebody paying a dollar more an hour.
Speaker BWe can't be.
Speaker BHow do we get people in the door?
Speaker BWe have to make sure that we're offering the most amount of money.
Speaker BCheck that box.
Speaker BWe can't let the fact that we want to charge a dollar less slow us down.
Speaker BSo we're going to.
Speaker BWe're going to make sure that we're offering the most money, you know, or at least close to it.
Speaker BWe're going to make sure that we change the wording so we can make the job sound more inviting.
Speaker BEvery Monday morning, we flood the market or the Internet with all these new ads.
Speaker BIt could be for a fishmonger one day, pastry chef, pastry cook, am culinary position, generically, team member, whatever you want to call it.
Speaker BAnd this wasn't really working.
Speaker BIt was helping, but it was the day that really, I was so flabbergasted and frustrated and questioning the sustainability.
Speaker BI have two kids, two young kids, three kids all together, two babies.
Speaker BI can't do this anymore.
Speaker BAnd then one day I just walked in.
Speaker BI said, well, you know, well, first of all, I was like, what the hell else am I going to do?
Speaker BAnd the second, I was like, am I going to let this beat me?
Speaker BAnd I was like.
Speaker BI said, from this point forward, I'm done with the worry part of it, because it can't get much worse than this.
Speaker BSo what am I worried about?
Speaker BAnd then I kind of like, for a couple of days, that incubated with me.
Speaker BAnd then I showed up one day and I addressed the team, and I said, we're no longer going to talk about how hard it is to find employees.
Speaker BWe're no longer going to talk about how these.
Speaker BThese entitled people want to have it their way when they walk in the door.
Speaker BWe're no longer going to judge people.
Speaker BWe're no longer going to look at the situation.
Speaker BAnd I say judge people.
Speaker BThat's kind of just what I mentioned about the generation that doesn't want to work.
Speaker BI was like, all of that stuff is just noise that is preventing us from enjoying ourselves.
Speaker BNow there's some.
Speaker BThere's some reality to, like, you know, the days were longer.
Speaker BI was washing dishes all the time.
Speaker BYou know, I was working in my business very much, not on my business business.
Speaker BAnd I just said, I'm done.
Speaker BI'm done with it.
Speaker BI don't hear it.
Speaker BI don't hear it anywhere.
Speaker BI said, we get to.
Speaker BStill, we're.
Speaker BWe're supporting more than ever local farmers, local fishermen.
Speaker BWe are providing a much needed respite from all the stress in the world to people that are coming back to our restaurants, and they're eagerly doing so.
Speaker BAnd they were so joyful to be there.
Speaker BAnd it was always evident in the way they express themselves, you know, and we work in a beautiful.
Speaker BTwo beautiful, you know, kitchens or restaurants, because this was an message to everybody.
Speaker BAnd we're providing.
Speaker BWe're consistently providing experience that are making people very happy.
Speaker BI was like, God, it could be so much worse.
Speaker BCouldn't it be so much worse?
Speaker BAnd we're making a living, right?
Speaker BIt's like we're doing all of the things that we want to do, we need to do, and it's.
Speaker BAnd we're safe, right?
Speaker BYou're working for a company that cares.
Speaker BSo if you don't feel well, you don't have to come in.
Speaker BAnd if somebody doesn't feel well and doesn't come in, we're not going to talk about how they should be here or that they're faking it or whatever.
Speaker BIt's like no more feeling sorry for ourselves.
Speaker BLet's just focus on the things that we love.
Speaker BAnd in hindsight, you know, as I'm telling you this, it sounds like something that anybody might come to that conclusion.
Speaker BBut at that moment in time, it was.
Speaker BIt was a seismic shift for us.
Speaker BAnd, and we had reevaluated our systems to, To.
Speaker BTo.
Speaker BWell, first of all, we had to do like, you know, our, you know, we had to do some auditing.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BMe too.
Speaker BOkay, we're good.
Speaker BYou know, we had been providing health care already.
Speaker BWe had been doing a lot of things right from an employee perspective at that time, the bear came out.
Speaker BThe restaurant industry is being vilified at the same time all this was happening.
Speaker BAnd we're like, oh, how about the $5 million that we've raised last year as a community for all the charities?
Speaker BWho's the first person you call when you want money for your charity?
Speaker BIt's your favorite restaurant.
Speaker BWho's been doing that forever?
Speaker BWhere's the stories about?
Speaker BTo this very day, those stories are still coming out about the restaurant industry being toxic.
Speaker BAnd it's like, there are so many amazing things about the business.
Speaker AYeah.
Speaker BAnd the conversation generally is.
Speaker BIt's not tenable for anybody.
Speaker BWhich is a crock of shit.
Speaker BSorry.
Speaker BBut we just went.
Speaker BWe focused on the positive.
Speaker BWe addressed those things internally to make sure that we were in good shape.
Speaker BAnd then we just pointed our compass north.
Speaker BAnd I swear to God, I don't know if a bunch of people moved to Charleston at that time or what happened or the word got out that we were having a good time, but it was a very quick pivot.
Speaker BI didn't want to use that word.
Speaker BWe shifted so quickly from what was me to look at us go.
Speaker BAnd I don't know if I can put my finger on anything else other than it was an.
Speaker BIt was a perspective adjustment.
Speaker AAnd if there's something good, it will come out.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker AApparently it did.
Speaker BThree years later, right to the.
Speaker BTo.
Speaker BWell, just about three years later.
Speaker BWe have the most.
Speaker BWe've evolved.
Speaker BWe've leapfrogged where we were and where we would be if that never happened.
Speaker BNot because there was negative things happening, because we had to be innovative in the way that we thought about.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BI want to be a competitive too.
Speaker BAnd I want the customers to say the food at our restaurants is better.
Speaker BThat's why they want to go there.
Speaker BBut maybe nowadays, more importantly, I want the word in the street to be like, this company is so great to work for.
Speaker BHow could I think about leaving or going anywhere else?
Speaker BOr I want to be part of it.
Speaker BAnd that.
Speaker BThat is because if you can get that done, and I think a lot of people understand this, making it happen is a different story.
Speaker BThat if, if, if, if.
Speaker BIf your people are at home excited to come to work, you.
Speaker BThat what isn't possible.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BIf, you know, if you're.
Speaker BIf you've got chaos in your organization, it's just a matter of time before it blows up.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo that's kind of how we looked at it and the lessons we learned through that first real test of ours and the length of time we had to endure it has really made us.
Speaker BHas made us all happier, more fulfilled.
Speaker BAnd we still have issues like any business has issues.
Speaker BBut honestly, it's never been better.
Speaker ASo compelling.
Speaker AAnd to bring it full circle, that night when my wife and I were sitting outside for our first pandemic dining experience at fig, I had just launched this podcast.
Speaker BNo kidding.
Speaker AI was just talking about.
Speaker AWas talking about, hey, I just interviewed.
Speaker AYou know, that's my first guest on this show.
Speaker AAnd we were making a pandemic with our leadership training on that.
Speaker ABut, yeah, an incredible story today of vision.
Speaker AAnd I had a couple of wild card responses I wanted to get from you.
Speaker ANumber one, when I throw out French toast, and I remember I heard a story about your mom and you improving upon her recipe as a.
Speaker AWhen you were young.
Speaker AWhat is the best way to cook French toast at home now, based on your perspective?
Speaker BWell, lots of, you know, for the.
Speaker ACommon man like me, what kind of.
Speaker BBread do you have?
Speaker BIs the first question.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BYou really need to figure out what you like best.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo the story you're referring to is that, you know, when we.
Speaker BSo let's say that I cook my French toast in an iron skillet.
Speaker BI have one that I like.
Speaker BIt's got the right depth in the sides, and it holds the right amount of toast for the size of my family.
Speaker BSo I can do two runs.
Speaker BTwo, Two full pans will feed everybody.
Speaker BYou know, slicing the bread the night before makes you feel like you win when you wake up for some reason.
Speaker BAnd putting it in the casserole dish that you're going to use to pour the egg mixture over the top of the custard mixture.
Speaker BSo figuring out, you know, like, don't put too much milk or cream in there.
Speaker BWe like to use sourdough bread.
Speaker BWe like to use good bread.
Speaker BBut you can anything.
Speaker BBut what you're referring to is that when you put the butter, we do it in whole butter.
Speaker BSo put the butter in the pan, and when you melt the butter, it's ready to go.
Speaker BYou put the French toast in the butter that's in the pan.
Speaker BWhile the French toast is browning, the butter browns with it.
Speaker BAnd when it does that, it kind of crisps the first side.
Speaker BAnd conversely, at the same time, it soaks up all the butter.
Speaker BAnd so when you flip it, you see this golden brown, nutty, crispy, beautiful.
Speaker BThe backside is always, like spotty, mostly yellow with a couple of points where the toast.
Speaker BSo you've soaked all the butter up.
Speaker BSo the bread's.
Speaker BIf it's curved at all, only where it's touching the pan is it going to catch any color.
Speaker BIt never looks as good as the first side.
Speaker BAnd I identified that as a young kid and I said to my grand.
Speaker BIt was.
Speaker BMy grandmother actually said, what if you had a second pan going and you put butter in the second pan and then you flipped from one pan to the next and.
Speaker BAnd we used to do that.
Speaker BBut the trick is, the trick is you got to put a little salt on top of the Toast when it comes out.
Speaker AOkay, duly noted.
Speaker BTiny bit of sea salt.
Speaker BBecause when it hits that maple syrup.
Speaker AGood, good, good culinary tip.
Speaker ALocation for best soft serve.
Speaker AI understand your culinary star was serving soft serve ice cream, is that right?
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker AWhere do you go nowadays or.
Speaker AOr what?
Speaker BMakes not a lot of good.
Speaker BLike there's not a lot of options that I can think of.
Speaker BTurbo cone makes us all very good.
Speaker AShout out to turbocone.
Speaker AOne of our favorites too.
Speaker AThat's all I get.
Speaker AThe summer.
Speaker ASo putting a cherry on top of the center of you might.
Speaker AWhat's your parting thought for our listeners and thank you for spending so much darn time with us today.
Speaker BKnow well in the context of.
Speaker BOf.
Speaker BOf leadership, I guess would be the.
Speaker ASounds great.
Speaker BWell, this is what I say to everybody.
Speaker BAnd I don't know if this is a routine answer or, or a.
Speaker BYou know, it's like when you're a leader, first of all, you have to be true to yourself.
Speaker BYou have to believe in what you're doing and you have to love what you're doing.
Speaker BAnd I think to sustain that throughout your career, you have to ask yourself, how do I make it fun?
Speaker BAnd you have to be willing to think about new ways to do that.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo if you're having a good time, everything else is so much easier.
Speaker BIf you're getting close to.
Speaker BIf you feel like you're grinding and it's got this relentless kind of vibe to it.
Speaker BI think that it's just a matter of time before you're standing in a place that you don't recognize I don't want to be involved in.
Speaker BSo I think you have to ask yourself, what do I need to do to make this fun?
Speaker BAnd you have to be creative about that.
Speaker BBut I think one thing that you have to continue to do, you know, and you mentioned it before about articulating the vision, is you have to have some people on your side that.
Speaker BThat can help you articulate that vision, that buy into your vision.
Speaker BAnd then what I tend to say, the people who find the value in working alongside of you that are have permission to challenge you respectfully.
Speaker BBecause we all know that when you're making decisions all the time, sometimes you get a little fatigue and that they believe in what they believe in too, and that they have permission to challenge you.
Speaker BAnd I think that when you share that responsibility of leadership, it becomes more fun when you do it.
Speaker BWhen you, when you can help, when you can lean on somebody else to help you through the day that you're maybe not feeling so great about it, but somebody has to be breathing, has to fill the room with, with, with air pressure, positive pressure.
Speaker BThat positive pressure is kind of like what happened with the, the pandemic when we started to say no more.
Speaker BWe feel sorry for ourselves every day.
Speaker BFill the room with positive air.
Speaker BIf you don't just like your house in the summertime, that, that, that, that crappy humid air is going to start coming in and getting things all mucky, like, you know, that's when the quote, unquote cancer shows up is when the negative pressure, which is in everybody, right?
Speaker BThe negative voice, the negative ideas, the complaining, the change that's part of everybody that's so consistent.
Speaker BSo I don't resent people for that, but I know that I have to act proactively to make sure that doesn't exist.
Speaker BAnd if the messaging is good enough, people don't feel comfortable sharing the negative things as much and they eventually, you know, buy into it.
Speaker BAnd sometimes it takes them leaving to know what they were in.
Speaker BBut overall, that's kind of my vibe.
Speaker AWow, what an interview.
Speaker AAnd I'm starving.
Speaker AI need to go to figure or the Ordinary.
Speaker ALove them both.
Speaker AThank you for being so generous with your personal stories, insights and I hope everybody gets to try Fig and the Ordinary.
Speaker AIt's something special.
Speaker BAppreciate it.