Yama Joba this is the Tbilisi Podcast covering life, travel and more in the country of Georgia, brought to you by foodfuntravel.com expathub.ge and ethistours.com.
Speaker BIn first part of our two part episode about things to do at attractions around Kutaisi and Imereti in West Georgia, I'm talking to Emily from Wanderlust all about these cool things to do.
Speaker BIn this first part, we are going to be talking specifically about Kutaisi itself and some of the stuff very close to the city.
Speaker BAnd then in the second part, we are going to be talking about things that are day trips from the city that you can go out and do, hire a car, get a tour, whatever you like.
Speaker BAll right, so let's get on with part one.
Speaker BOkay, it's Tom again from the Tbilisi Podcast.
Speaker BWelcome to another episode.
Speaker BToday we are talking about Emirati and the capital of Emirati, Kutaisi and all the different attractions and other things that you might be interested to see if you're in that part of West Georgia.
Speaker BAnd I am joined today by Emily Lush from Wandalush, travel writer and blogger and one of the biggest bloggers, probably the biggest blogger in Georgia right now.
Speaker BA lot of her content, if you're searching Google, you're probably going to find articles by her whenever you're looking up various tourism topics about Georgia.
Speaker BSo, Emily, welcome to the show.
Speaker AThank you, Tom, for having me.
Speaker AIt's great to be here.
Speaker BNo worries.
Speaker BSo we're talking about Kutaisi now in another episode which may or may not be out at this point, we discussed actually moving to Kutaisi as an expat.
Speaker BIn this episode we're going to be talking about the sort of the cool things to do if you're a tourist or even if you're living there as an expat.
Speaker BMaybe you haven't done quite a few of these things around that area that are really interesting and stuff that you definitely want to put on your list if you are coming to Georgia.
Speaker BSo we know you live there, we know you're a Georgia expert.
Speaker BSo we know this list is going to be pretty good.
Speaker BI'm guessing you've got some cool things on here.
Speaker BSo, so I'm going to hand it over to you to get started.
Speaker BMaybe.
Speaker BLike should we start with your number one thing?
Speaker BIf you're absolutely going to Kutaisi and you're only there for half a day, let's say, and you don't want to miss this one thing, what's your top of your list.
Speaker BIs there a top of the list?
Speaker BMaybe there's five things at the top of the list and it's impossible to decide.
Speaker ALook, top of my list is the city centre.
Speaker AKutaisi is a small enough city that you can kind of see the historical center in just a couple of hours.
Speaker AAnd it's a really nice city to walk on foot.
Speaker ASo I think, you know, top of my list is to kind of do your own little self guided walking tour of the city.
Speaker ATake in the architecture, the little park in the center, the amazing green bazaar which is the main agricultural market.
Speaker AAnd it's right in the center as well.
Speaker AAnd that's a really nice way to spend a couple of hours, a really nice introduction to Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd you'll see, you know, kind of the main landmark in the center is the Colchis fountain, which is very bizarre if you don't know the story behind it.
Speaker ABut it's a, it's a fountain that's made up of these gold ornaments.
Speaker AAnd these are from burial sites near Vani, which is a very small town near Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd these go back, you know, thousands of years to the kingdom of Colchis.
Speaker AAnd these are based on ornaments found at that burial site.
Speaker ASo this is like a reference to the age and the history of the city.
Speaker AAnd it's a really beautiful kind of landmark in the center of the city.
Speaker ABut the other thing is Bagrati Cathedral and that kind of overlooks the center of Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd you can walk up there.
Speaker AIt's actually a really nice place for sunset.
Speaker ASo if you're in the city in the afternoon, definitely head up there to watch the sunset.
Speaker AAnd then around Kutaisi I'll talk about all the wonderful things you can do around the city.
Speaker ABut there are two monasteries, Galati and Mozzumeta.
Speaker AGalati is UNESCO listed, one of Georgia's four UNESCO sites and 15, 20 minutes from the center of the city.
Speaker ASo that's definitely a must see as well.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BAll right, so before we get onto some more specific descriptions about some of these cool things, we've tantalized our listeners with some interesting stuff to do.
Speaker BBut let's just do a quick summary of sort of what is Kutaisi?
Speaker BWhere is Kutaisi?
Speaker BWhat is it like, what's the weather like?
Speaker BJust the basics.
Speaker BLet's do a quick rundown on that.
Speaker ASo Kutaisi is in the region of Emirati and it's the second largest city in Georgia behind Tbilisi, of course.
Speaker ABut having said that, the population is about 180,000 max from the estimates that I can find.
Speaker AAnd with Tbilisi being over a million people, it's sizably very, very much smaller than the capital.
Speaker BIt's a small city feel.
Speaker BIt's a city just about.
Speaker ADefinitely, definitely, definitely got that big, big village, big town feel about it.
Speaker AAnd, yeah, it's very peaceful, very laid back, very relaxed.
Speaker AYou definitely get this vibe.
Speaker AIt's very sort of.
Speaker AI always describe it as kind of like vintage Y almost.
Speaker AYou know, there's beautiful old architecture in the city center.
Speaker AA lot of history, as I've mentioned, a lot of history to do with literature and poetry.
Speaker ASo it's got that kind of romance about it.
Speaker ABut in terms of the location, it's about three and a half to four hours west of Tbilisi, and it's in western Georgia.
Speaker ASo you cross through the Ricotti Pass, and west of Georgia is very different to the east.
Speaker AYou know, it's a different climate.
Speaker AWe're getting towards the Black Sea coast, so it's a lot more humid.
Speaker AIt's a little bit wetter, and the climate is pretty good, actually.
Speaker AThe summers can be hot, but it's pretty mild all year round.
Speaker AWe definitely have winter, but spring kind of arrives early in this part of the country, and autumn is absolutely divine.
Speaker AAnd that's probably the nicest time to travel to Kudaisi.
Speaker BYeah, summer, I was like, it's super humid when I was there in August, like, wow, okay, then come back to Tbilisi and it's really hot, but it's really dry hot, so it's sort of bearable.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BBut, yeah, other times of the year, definitely good to visit.
Speaker BAnd it's really green as well.
Speaker BI found whenever I go there, I'm like, it's so green here because Tbilisi is a bit arid.
Speaker BAnd the areas around Tbilisi are quite arid.
Speaker BAnd the grass goes very yellow in the summer, whereas it always feels like Katasi is quite green.
Speaker AIt is very green.
Speaker AEven in the city center, there is a lot of green space, and you're kind of surrounded by green hills and mountains, and some of these I'll talk about in a moment.
Speaker ABut we have, like, tea fields and, you know, amazing flora and fauna right on Kutaisi's doorstep.
Speaker ASo I definitely agree that it's a very green city.
Speaker AOf course, you know, the.
Speaker AThe other thing is that during the Soviet period, Kutaisi became very industrialized.
Speaker ASo you also have this kind of different landscape contrasting with the historical center and the beautiful green landscape around the city.
Speaker AYou have this kind of Soviet factory side of the city, which is also very interesting.
Speaker ASo you have these three elements kind of interacting, and this provides some great opportunities for travelers of all types.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BAnd part of that greenery is lots of vines as well.
Speaker BPlenty of winemakers out there, so lots.
Speaker AAnd lots of wine.
Speaker BIf we're getting onto that somewhere in your list, perhaps.
Speaker BBut if not, we'll talk about that later as well.
Speaker BOkay.
Speaker BSo, yeah, that's Cotaisi in a nutshell.
Speaker BSo tell me then, what are sort of your favorite attractions?
Speaker BYou mentioned a few, maybe a little bit more detail on each one and what people can expect to see and do if they're going to go and explore these attractions that you have.
Speaker ASo I think in a day you can see sort of all of Kutaisi, basically, if you're interested in seeing sort of the more traditional tourist attractions.
Speaker AA day is a good amount of time, and like I said, it's really nice to explore on foot.
Speaker ASo I definitely always recommend starting at the market.
Speaker AI recommend this for any city in Georgia, but especially in Kutaisi because the market is fantastic, everyone is very friendly and you really get a good insight into Emeritian cuisine by going to the market, of course, and it's called the Green Bazaar and it is absolutely chock full of herbs and greenery.
Speaker AThis is a huge part of local food culture.
Speaker AAnd the market is kind of a really good place to see this and kind of get an idea of what you're going to be eating later in Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo I always recommend starting there.
Speaker AThere's a really cool Soviet era sculpture on the front of the market that a lot of people go and see.
Speaker AAnd that's a really cool one of many kind of elements from Kutaisi's Soviet period that if you're interested in mosaics and this kind of thing, you can definitely find a lot of that in Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo that's my first stop.
Speaker BIt's massive, this mural.
Speaker BI remember when I tried to take a photo of it, I had to get a wider lens.
Speaker BI was like, oh, wow, this thing is just crazy.
Speaker BAnd it's also.
Speaker BIt's right in the middle of the city, so you're sort of surrounded by other buildings and roads a little bit as well.
Speaker ASo, yeah, as with a lot of markets here, the market kind of spills out into the surrounding streets and there are some laneways that are.
Speaker AThat have stalls on them as well.
Speaker AAnd yes, this very epic.
Speaker AI guess it's a bas relief and it's made of stone or, you know, Some material, but it depicts Jason and the Golden Fleece and this kind of Greek mythology that is tied to Kutaisi and the city's history.
Speaker ASo that's a really, you know, a really interesting kind of place to start your adventure in the city.
Speaker BBecause this is the story that the Fleece was here and Jason of the Argonauts came and stole it from the Georgians, effectively.
Speaker BI mean, they weren't Georgians in those days.
Speaker BIt was Kingdom of Colchis, I believe.
Speaker AExactly, exactly.
Speaker BSo, yeah, this is where it all happened.
Speaker BIf you've seen the movies and whatever, this is where it's been going on.
Speaker AYeah, they do think that Kutaisi was potentially the capital, so that the Jason and the Argonauts came up the Rioni river from the Black Sea, from Poti and ended up in Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo, yeah, there's that really interesting history.
Speaker BOkay, so what else have we got?
Speaker ASo all around the market, I mean, the market's kind of very central.
Speaker AYou can just walk those back streets and find really interesting not just food, you know, Emeriti and cheese, which is.
Speaker AThere are products from Kutaisi, from Emoretti, that are all around Georgia.
Speaker AOne of them is cheese.
Speaker ASo if you're into cheese, this is like amazing to go through those back streets behind the market and see the ladies selling these big wheels of white Emeritian cheese.
Speaker AYou can also go into these buildings and a lot of these houses are like old mansions or old doctor's houses.
Speaker AReally beautiful architecture.
Speaker AAnd a lot of them have been sort of repurposed as hardware stores.
Speaker ASo there's this particular street behind the market that you can go in and see these, like beautiful architectural elements of these houses.
Speaker AAnd yeah, that whole area is just a hive of activity, especially in the morning.
Speaker ASo it's a really nice place for a stroll.
Speaker AAnd then if you go the opposite way, so turn around and go back to the center of the city, you come to the sort of central park and it has a couple of different names, but this is kind of the main green space in the city.
Speaker AThere's some really interesting statues in the park.
Speaker ASo a nice place for a little break, a little walk.
Speaker AAnd then there's beautiful buildings all around the park as well.
Speaker AAnd then you have the fountain on the park also.
Speaker ASo behind the fountain there's a beautiful theater building that dates back to Soviet times.
Speaker AIf there's something playing at the theatre, I definitely recommend buying a ticket so that you can see the interior.
Speaker AIt's pretty spectacular.
Speaker ANothing like Tbilisi's theater, but still it's very nice in more of a Soviet style.
Speaker BAll right.
Speaker BNo, I've never actually been inside that one, so I'd be interested next time I'm there.
Speaker BTry and get a performance.
Speaker AYes, it's always something nice to do.
Speaker AThere's also an opera theatre which has performances as well.
Speaker AAnd this theater, it was reconstructed, but it's much older.
Speaker ASo it's also got a lot of history.
Speaker AAs I mentioned, a lot of authors and poets came from Kutaisi in, I guess, early 20th century.
Speaker AAnd there was also a big theater scene in Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo Kotay Marjaneshvili, who had a theater here in Tbilisi, his theatre started in Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo there's a really rich history of theatre and performance in the city.
Speaker ASo that's definitely something fun to do.
Speaker BCool.
Speaker BAnything in English or you're expecting it to be Georgian performances?
Speaker AMainly it's going to be Georgian, but you know, you can follow along and see how much of the story you can pick up.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BAll right, so.
Speaker BAnd anything else to do, sort of around the center and maybe how long would you sort of spend if you wanted to see that center properly?
Speaker BHow many hours do you think you need?
Speaker AYeah, I mean, there are a few other points of interest.
Speaker AThere's so Kutaisi, the Rioni river runs right through the center.
Speaker ASo there's a few bridges, if you're interested in this kind of thing.
Speaker AEach bridge is a little bit different.
Speaker AAnd there's a chain bridge that's kind of the oldest bridge that crosses from behind the market to go up to Bagrati, which I'll talk about in a moment.
Speaker ABut there's also the White bridge, there's the Red bridge.
Speaker AThere are these very.
Speaker BKeeping the naming simple.
Speaker AExactly, exactly.
Speaker AIt's very easy to navigate, although the.
Speaker BWhite bridge was sort of not that white when I was there.
Speaker BI don't know if they've painted it recently, but it seems sort of just metal.
Speaker AYeah, it does need a little touch up, I will say that.
Speaker ABut the thing about the White bridge is that point in the river, there are these amazing white stones in the river.
Speaker ASo part of the bridge is made of Perspex, so you can look down over the river and it's, you know, I always say the roaring Rioni because this river is so fast at some times of year.
Speaker AAnd it's pretty amazing, these rock formations that you see in the river.
Speaker AThere's a nice little cafe on the side of the bridge that was a meeting place for poets back in the day, you can have a cup of coffee there.
Speaker AThen there's also a royal palace in the center of the city that you can sort of walk the grounds.
Speaker AThere's a really beautiful tree in the garden.
Speaker AThen there's an old cable car that you can use to get up to.
Speaker AWe have our own sort of version of Meta Tminda, but it's a very.
Speaker BSmall amusement park, which is for those listeners who don't know, it's an area in Tbilisi that's a very steep sort of one side of the city that leads up to this very big park on the top of the hill and a Ferris wheel that you'll see if you come to Tbilisi.
Speaker BYou can't miss the Ferris wheel, but that sort of.
Speaker BYeah, that park at the top is called Mudatsuminda.
Speaker BAnd then there's a district below that as well where lots of people stay in Airbnbs and things.
Speaker BAnd it's quite a nice inner city area.
Speaker AExactly.
Speaker AAnd same as in Tbilisi, in Kutaisi, it's very popular for families to go up there in the evening and it's a nice kind of place to chill out.
Speaker AAnd in summer it's nice and cool up there.
Speaker BAnd is the cable car one of these ones where you think the bottom's going to drop out and you're going to die, like in Chiatura or.
Speaker BWhich is.
Speaker BI think they're all closed in Chiatura now, but they are rusty and dangerous.
Speaker BOr it used to be.
Speaker AYeah, it's definitely a relic of the Soviet past.
Speaker ABut, you know, it's, it's, you know, you go over the river, but it's not, it's not a long trip.
Speaker ASo, yeah, you'll be fine, we hope.
Speaker BDisclaimer.
Speaker BYeah, it's nothing to do with us if the bottom falls out of the.
Speaker BOf the cable car.
Speaker AOkay.
Speaker AAnother great thing about Kutaisi is, you know, I've mentioned there's a rich history, so there's an archaeology museum, but there are also these really cute small museums.
Speaker ASo we have the Museum of Sports, we have a war museum and something called the Frodo Chronicle Museum.
Speaker ASo these are very small museums.
Speaker AYou know, nothing is in English, of course, but the people who run these museums are really dedicated to the institution that I guess they've been doing this for many, many years.
Speaker AI really love these small museums, museums that are very quirky.
Speaker AAnd the Museum of Sports in particular is very interesting.
Speaker AKutaisi has a long history of sportsmanship as well.
Speaker BWhat are the sports that they're.
Speaker BI mean, I think they like doing rugby here a lot.
Speaker BWhat else are they featuring here?
Speaker ARugby, wrestling, basketball.
Speaker AI don't know any sport.
Speaker AYou know, Georgians have had a go at it.
Speaker BThey do love basketball in Georgia.
Speaker BEveryone's always talking about basketball.
Speaker AAbsolutely.
Speaker AAnd a lot of sportsmen have come from Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo there's this museum dedicated to local athletes throughout history, and it's very, very interesting.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker AI'll also talk about two sort of districts of Kutaisi that are very interesting.
Speaker ASo they're right by each other.
Speaker AOne is the Jewish district, or the old Jewish quarter.
Speaker ASo there are three synagogues in Kutaisi.
Speaker AThere's one big one that's more active, and they do have services there from time to time.
Speaker AThen there are two smaller ones.
Speaker AOne is adjacent and one is a bit further down the street.
Speaker ABut this whole area, which is kind of behind the Kolshis fountain down on the bank of the Rioni river, was kind of the Jewish corridor where Jewish families lived.
Speaker AAnd Kutaisi did have a big Jewish community for many years.
Speaker ASo there's some really interesting architecture in this area, a lot of history.
Speaker AThe street is called Gapanov street after Boris Gapanov, who was a very famous resident of Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd his biggest claim was translating the Knight in the Panther's Skin, which is an epic poem, Shoto Rustaveli.
Speaker AHe translated that into Hebrew.
Speaker ASo he was from Kutaisi.
Speaker ASo the street is named after him.
Speaker AAnd then, yeah, the other one is the Catholic quarter.
Speaker ASo there's a beautiful Catholic church, the Church of Assumption, I believe, and it's now an Orthodox church, but it was built for a French community who are in Cotaisi.
Speaker ASo Kutaisi also has a French connection from its history, and so these two parts of the city are very interesting in terms of architecture and history.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BAnd of course, we've thrown lots of names out here, but you do have a couple of articles, or at least one big article that's related to these topics.
Speaker BRight.
Speaker BSo people can find this quite easily on your blog as well.
Speaker AI do.
Speaker AI have a couple.
Speaker AOne is a sort of a guide to Kutaisi, which is kind of the things you must see.
Speaker AAnd then I also have hidden gems, which is kind of, you know, that's a bit of a gimmick.
Speaker ABut there are a couple of lesser visited spots that are kind of my favorite spots in the city.
Speaker BAll right.
Speaker BSo, yeah, we've done a few hours of walking around in Kutaisi so far, and I think you probably have a couple more Places to visit before we then start looking at some places outside of the city.
Speaker AAre you hungry yet?
Speaker BBecause I'm mostly hungry all of the time, so, yeah.
Speaker AYou know, one of the good things about Kutaisi is the food scene.
Speaker AOf course, food and wine is a big part of life in Emirati, as it is in all of Georgia.
Speaker ABut Kutaisi has a really unique cuisine that comes from the region.
Speaker ASo if you're hungry, you know, there are some great restaurants in the city center.
Speaker AProbably the most famous is Sisters, and that's located right in the center.
Speaker AIt's a great place to have lunch if you're exploring the city on foot.
Speaker AIt's right on the park.
Speaker AAnd it's recently, well, about a year ago, relocated to a beautiful historic building.
Speaker AAnd so it's run by a family, and they have done up the restaurant with beautiful antique furniture from their village in Lechkumi, which is in the mountains north of Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd they specialize in emirating cuisine, and they do a lot of seasonal stuff, so you can visit at different times of year and find something new on the menu.
Speaker AIt's just a beautiful ambience that I think perfectly captures the essence of Kutaisi.
Speaker AVery charming and sweet.
Speaker AAnd there's often piano music playing, which just makes it that much better.
Speaker BYeah, no, I love that.
Speaker BThat would be my top pick for sure.
Speaker AThere are some others.
Speaker AYou know, there's a part of Kutaisi called the Royal District, which is where a lot of the old architecture is.
Speaker AAnd there's a restaurant in there called Palati, which has been around for a long time.
Speaker BThey actually owned by the same people as Sisters, as I believe.
Speaker AAh, I'm not sure about that.
Speaker BSomeone's going to have to fact check that.
Speaker ABut let's fact check that.
Speaker AI know for sure that they have just opened a branch in Tbilisi.
Speaker BOkay.
Speaker ASo if you.
Speaker AI don't know, I would suggest trying them in Kutaisi, going to the original, because they also do a lot of Emiratian cuisine.
Speaker AAnd it's really nice to, you know, have the local food when you're in Kutaisi.
Speaker AAnd they do a bunch of restaurants do this.
Speaker AThey do a tasting board where you can taste like a bunch of local delicacies from the region.
Speaker APalati does a really nice version of this.
Speaker ASo if you're hungry, these boards are big.
Speaker AYou know, there's often a whole chicken on there, so you have to come hungry.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BIt's not just your usual little charcuterie board.
Speaker BThis is like everything Massive selection of food all on one big board, right?
Speaker AYes.
Speaker AAnd big proper portions of everything as well.
Speaker ASo we're talking a whole Chapuri here on the board, yeah?
Speaker BYep.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BBring some friends with you if you're going to order one of these.
Speaker ADefinitely bring a friend.
Speaker ADefinitely.
Speaker AAnother restaurant is Lilistan, which is another.
Speaker AA newer restaurant that's opened, maybe been open for about a year.
Speaker AAnd they do really nice.
Speaker AI really love their salads.
Speaker AThey do these, like, very creative salads with local herbs and tarragon and all these wonderful things that grow in Emoretti.
Speaker AAnd really nice wine list as well.
Speaker ASo a lot of wineries that are close to the city, you can find these wines, also cider and beer.
Speaker AA couple of producers do these as well and you can taste them in these restaurants in the city.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BCider has been such a difficult thing to find for so many years, but a few people are now making it.
Speaker BSo that's great to hear that.
Speaker BThere's someone over in Kutaisi doing it as well.
Speaker AYes.
Speaker BDo you have any tips about who it is or.
Speaker BIt's just.
Speaker AI can tell you, of course, it's in Scartubo, so it is Ezo.
Speaker BWe'll talk about Skaltubo later as well, because that's quite important.
Speaker AWe were definitely coming to Teotubo.
Speaker AOne more little eatery that I'll mention before I tell you a few more things to do is called Ikentias.
Speaker AAnd this is a very different food experience, but also very interesting.
Speaker ASo this place is.
Speaker AIt's been around for a long time.
Speaker AIt's definitely a very Soviet vibe, but basically it's a little canteen type thing.
Speaker AThey only really do one dish, which is kebab, and you get two pieces of kebab with this really nice kind of spicy tomato satsubele sauce.
Speaker AYou get like a.
Speaker ABasically a half loaf of bread to mop up the sauce and you get a pint of a glass of tap beer.
Speaker AAnd there's no seats.
Speaker AYou go in, you order, you grab your food and you stand at a little table and you'll see everyone else in there is like, you know, working class kanakutaisi, salt of the earth people.
Speaker AAnd this is very much like a local dining experience.
Speaker ASo if you want something quick and on the go, this is definitely a fun.
Speaker AA fun thing to do.
Speaker BThey are actually pretty tasty kebabs as well.
Speaker BSo whether you're on a budget or not, it's still worth giving them a go, I think.
Speaker BAnd it's like a Local tradition.
Speaker BThat dish as well.
Speaker AAbsolutely.
Speaker AYeah, I agree, I agree.
Speaker ASo after that, if you want to venture to the other side of the river, which not all people do, I must admit.
Speaker AFirst few times I visited Kutaisi, I never even knew there was another side of the river.
Speaker ABut a lot of people live on the other side of the river.
Speaker AThis area is more residential.
Speaker AIt's newer.
Speaker AIt was, you know, probably developed in the 80s and 90s, so in the late Soviet period.
Speaker ASo there's a lot of more apartments, but you'll find some really interesting things over the other side of the river.
Speaker ASo I definitely recommend, if you have, you know, longer than maybe a morning, you have a second day in the city, you can head over the river and see some of these other apartments.
Speaker AMore offbeat attractions, I would say.
Speaker ASo there's some.
Speaker AThere's a really fantastic agricultural market, which is.
Speaker AIt's different from the Green Bazaar in that it's more local, It's a lot more chaotic.
Speaker AThere's a lot more kind of.
Speaker BIs it more sort of like outdoors with canopies and stuff rather than an actual building?
Speaker BI haven't been to this one.
Speaker AIt's a bit of a mix.
Speaker AThere's an outdoor section, for sure, that sprawls kind of all along the side of the train tracks, but there's also some undercover pavilions.
Speaker AAnd these are really strange.
Speaker AYou know, I wish I knew more about the history of these covered sections, but I think they're from the 2000s and they've made this meat hall that is like a work of art, actually.
Speaker AIn fact, you know, there are stalls at the bottom, and then above you can see these, like, original artworks hanging inside the market.
Speaker AIt's really strange.
Speaker AThere's also, like, lots of sculptures and Piros Mani is a famous Georgian painter.
Speaker ALots of, like, little panels of his work, and then these very opulent fountains and marble columns.
Speaker AAnd it's a crazy market.
Speaker ASo I definitely recommend having a walk through there.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BVery cool.
Speaker AOutside of the market, there are mosaics, if you're interested in Soviet era mosaics.
Speaker AThere are a couple of very large scale and reasonably well preserved mosaics in Kutaisi.
Speaker AThere's also a lot of old factories, so you can kind of walk around some of these streets.
Speaker ALike Guggenheva street is a famous one where there are old factories and kind of these relics of the past that are mostly abandoned.
Speaker AAnd yeah, I know this isn't for everyone, but if you're interested in that kind of thing, it is very fascinating and you can kind of see like the skeletons of these old factories and bas reliefs and mosaics around the place as well.
Speaker BWell, yeah, so a bit of off track tourism.
Speaker BDefinitely some people interested in that for sure.
Speaker BSo we've covered most of the sort of like this.
Speaker BLike there's so many things to do, but like none of these are like big internationally recognized attractions.
Speaker BThey're like all of these really cool things to do whilst you're there.
Speaker BBut of course, there is one more that is very close to the city that is a UNESCO site.
Speaker BAnd so I guess we didn't really talk about it.
Speaker BWe mentioned it at the start of the episode, I think.
Speaker BOr we mentioned the monasteries at the start of the episode, but not the cathedral.
Speaker AYes, you definitely have to make time to do.
Speaker AIt's not a day trip, it's only sort of a 20 minute drive.
Speaker ABut Galati, which is a very famous monastery, it was also an academy, so they had a scriptorium and various other things happening on this site.
Speaker AAnd it's very close to Kutaisi and as you said, it's one of Georgia's four UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Speaker ASo this is definitely something to do when you're in Kutaisi.
Speaker AThere's another monastery nearby called Motsumeta, which is also very beautiful.
Speaker AIt's kind of in a very picturesque location.
Speaker AAnd you can actually walk between the monasteries or you can even walk the whole way up from Kutaisi, or ideally you would go because they're kind of on a hill.
Speaker ASo you take a taxi up to Galati first and then you can walk back down to the city on the old train tracks, which is a really nice way to spend an afternoon.
Speaker BNice.
Speaker BAnd yeah, so Galati, of course, has these incredible frescoes which are some of the best preserved because as any sort of Soviet history people will know, they whitewashed so many of these amazing frescoes in the cathedrals whilst they were sort of banning religion.
Speaker BSo many of them were destroyed or damaged to a point where they couldn't be restored.
Speaker BWhereas these ones are in really good shape and it's very high.
Speaker BLike the actual building itself is very high.
Speaker BAnd the frescoes go all the way up the wall and it's really quite impressive.
Speaker AThey are stunning.
Speaker AAnd there's been work recently to restore both the outside of the building, the roof, and also to preserve these frescoes.
Speaker ASo they are, of course, being a UNESCO site, they do put some work into preserving these.
Speaker ASo, yeah, they're definitely worth seeing.
Speaker AA very important, you know, probably the most important cultural religious site in the west of the country.
Speaker ADefinitely worth seeing.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BAnd as you said, much the better.
Speaker BI mean, it's really funny.
Speaker BWe talk about Georgia a lot.
Speaker BOf course, this is a Tbilisi podcast, but one of the things people always say to me is, do they have to be so many churches?
Speaker BWe're done with churches.
Speaker BAnd, like.
Speaker BWell, when you come to Georgia, it's not always about the church, it's about the scenic location that each of these church is in, and everyone's different.
Speaker BAnd so, yeah, with Galati, it's all about the interior.
Speaker BIt's amazing.
Speaker BBut then, Mozzumetta, that you mentioned, we're probably underselling how beautiful the little area that this thing is perched on top of is.
Speaker BThere's like a river that runs all the way around, like a horseshoe around this monastery.
Speaker AYeah.
Speaker AThere's almost like a little drawbridge kind of vibe as you enter.
Speaker AIt's very medieval feeling.
Speaker AAnd the whole place is just surrounded by forests, so if you're there in summer or even late spring, it's just beautiful and green.
Speaker AAnd then in autumn, you know, there's a small window, but if you're lucky enough to see the fall colours, it's really, really stunning.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BSo well worth taking a look at both of those.
Speaker BAnd then.
Speaker BYeah, I think the one that we missed, perhaps, that we mentioned at the start, was Bagrati Cathedral as well.
Speaker AYes.
Speaker BWhich is a bit easier to walk to.
Speaker AYes.
Speaker AYou can walk to Bagrati from the centre.
Speaker ASo you cross one of these bridges that I mentioned, the Chain Bridge, which is the oldest bridge in the city, and you cross over there.
Speaker AThere's a little set of stairs to take you up the hill.
Speaker AAnd Bagrati is perched right on the top of the hill.
Speaker AIt literally overlooks the whole city.
Speaker AIt's a beautiful location.
Speaker AThere's a great big yard in front of the church, and there's also some old ruins of a castle that you can kind of climb on and have a look around.
Speaker ABut from this yard, which is a beautiful green space, it looks, you know, directly over the city and is just a fabulous place to watch the sunset.
Speaker AYou don't see the actual sun, but the colors from the haze and the sun sort of setting off in the distance is just really stunning.
Speaker BYeah.
Speaker BYep.
Speaker BWell worth a walk up there.
Speaker BNow, I think we're going to probably move on to some things outside of the city that are maybe lesser known and some things that maybe you think people should definitely go and see.
Speaker BOkay, so we are splitting this into a double episode, so we're going to wrap up this first part right here.
Speaker BWe've been talking about lots of things to do in Kutaisi and very close to Kutaisi.
Speaker BAnd in the next part we are going to be talking about heading out of the city and taking some day trips to some other areas, nearby wine regions and tea plantations, maybe over to the Black Sea coast and, you know, finding some other interesting cool stuff that maybe regular tourists don't find very easily.
Speaker BSo some secret tips in this next episode as well.
Speaker BSo do join us for that.
Speaker BThat will be the next episode coming out and that's it for this one.
Speaker BThanks again to Emily, who joined us on the show today, and she'll be joining us again for the second part.
Speaker BFor pretty much any of the things that we were talking about in this episode, you can hop on Emily's blog, Wanderlush, and she's got a couple of articles on there that talk about most of the places.
Speaker BSo if some of the names were a bit hard to understand.
Speaker BGeorgian language is pretty tricky, as you know from listening to our other episodes, then you can find those exact places by taking a look at her blog.
Speaker BSo join us next time for more information about Kutaisi and Imaretti.
Speaker AThanks for listening to the Tbilisi Podcast.
Speaker AConnect with us@foodfuntravel.com Tbilisi podcast, where you can find all relevant social media links, join our email newsletter and discover more about travel tours and expat services in Georgia.
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